I know I haven't left yet but the internet access is good here in Nagano and I fly out of Japan a week today - I'm a fast learner so you can have this one a bit out of sync!
Just how do I do this - because Japan is the most fascinating place that I've visited yet - and I say that 'cos even after a month here I still find myself, everyday, going 'wow - check that out' - but here goes ...
You have to understand that the Japanese read right to left, back to front and, awkwardly for a westerner, top to bottom
Loads of people still cycle everywhere (while texting!), on the pavements away from the dangerous cars, and they leave them everywhere - but there's not a lock in sight
You have to understand that the Japanese read right to left, back to front and, awkwardly for a westerner, top to bottom
Loads of people still cycle everywhere (while texting!), on the pavements away from the dangerous cars, and they leave them everywhere - but there's not a lock in sight
Because the crime rate's so mega-low (compared to many places) and it feels like the safest place on the planet - hooray and take a bow Japan - this is how the world should behave - kids still play in the streets, young women hang out at dusk in parks and you don't have to think twice about walking down a dark alley - it's worth visiting for this wonderful feeling alone
You have to 'do a Mickelson' all day - that is nod courteously to everyone you interact with - if you're now sure what it is - ask Matt Nicholson - he's got it down perfectly
There are loud public announcements in open spaces from speakers hidden in trees!
They love baseball - go Swallows!
They're umbrella mad - and stick them in plastic bags in shops to they don't get the floors wet - and many are cutely see through - even for businessmen
Who also join all the kids in having a little toy dangling from their mobile/cell phone - often with a jangly bell!
Wellington/gum boots (flowery) are very in with the women of Tokyo this season!
I think I covered the future of mobile/cell phones in a blog picture but remember it's all about TV and watching the news on your way home on the train is real, here, now
The Japanese are the world's best sight-seers/tourists - they follow a young guide round in big buses - the guide's dressed very smartly, walks quickly and waves a flashy flag - the tourists dress in very fancy (better than anything in the USA) trainers and outdoors gear
You have to 'do a Mickelson' all day - that is nod courteously to everyone you interact with - if you're now sure what it is - ask Matt Nicholson - he's got it down perfectly
There are loud public announcements in open spaces from speakers hidden in trees!
They love baseball - go Swallows!
They're umbrella mad - and stick them in plastic bags in shops to they don't get the floors wet - and many are cutely see through - even for businessmen
Who also join all the kids in having a little toy dangling from their mobile/cell phone - often with a jangly bell!
Wellington/gum boots (flowery) are very in with the women of Tokyo this season!
I think I covered the future of mobile/cell phones in a blog picture but remember it's all about TV and watching the news on your way home on the train is real, here, now
The Japanese are the world's best sight-seers/tourists - they follow a young guide round in big buses - the guide's dressed very smartly, walks quickly and waves a flashy flag - the tourists dress in very fancy (better than anything in the USA) trainers and outdoors gear
They're so clean they place a member of staff at the bottom of elevators who cleans the hand grease off the big rubber tube you hang on to - picture cloth and determined expression!
The rubber stamp (that superseded the ancient seal) is a signature here - they're legally binding and registered with the government
Geisha's do still exist (although in smaller numbers than ever) and I saw two in the Pontocho district of Kyoto - in fact - I even made eye contact with one which is v rare - in fact seeing the real deal at all is rare - many are just tourists dressed up!
The language is like nothing I've attempted before - the intonation of words (look it up Nev) is flat - there's not an 'a' sound as in father - it's more like an 'uh' - and the sentence structure clearly inspired George Lucas' Yoda - there's also no word for OK but instead they say 'hai' (yes) instead and a lot - but when you crack a bit of it and engage it feels great - and the Japanese giggle so beautifully at your attempts my advice is get stuck in and have a go!
The food is top quality and wacky - the octopus leg dumplings remain my favourite - wherever you go it's brilliantly presented and impeccably clean - to a sugar fueled westerner it's not always tasty - I can barely tell my tofu from the gelatinous sweets that aren't sweet 'cos they're rice based - but no complaints - they adore profiteroles - I've barely used the Lonely Planet for recommendations - everywhere's good - but I haven't done that much sushi - I've enjoyed noodle slurping too much!
The rubber stamp (that superseded the ancient seal) is a signature here - they're legally binding and registered with the government
Geisha's do still exist (although in smaller numbers than ever) and I saw two in the Pontocho district of Kyoto - in fact - I even made eye contact with one which is v rare - in fact seeing the real deal at all is rare - many are just tourists dressed up!
The language is like nothing I've attempted before - the intonation of words (look it up Nev) is flat - there's not an 'a' sound as in father - it's more like an 'uh' - and the sentence structure clearly inspired George Lucas' Yoda - there's also no word for OK but instead they say 'hai' (yes) instead and a lot - but when you crack a bit of it and engage it feels great - and the Japanese giggle so beautifully at your attempts my advice is get stuck in and have a go!
The food is top quality and wacky - the octopus leg dumplings remain my favourite - wherever you go it's brilliantly presented and impeccably clean - to a sugar fueled westerner it's not always tasty - I can barely tell my tofu from the gelatinous sweets that aren't sweet 'cos they're rice based - but no complaints - they adore profiteroles - I've barely used the Lonely Planet for recommendations - everywhere's good - but I haven't done that much sushi - I've enjoyed noodle slurping too much!
I now realise that religion the world over is big (if not the biggest?) business - Buddhism is probably more important here than Catholicism is in South America - and stick me in a Buddhist temple and I feel weirdly contented (mind you - I always should be in 2008!)
The women have a real elegance here that's refreshing to my eyes - and I really mean the Japanese women - not the long legged, skinny, young, western models that are everywhere in Tokyo
Nightingale floorboards immediately conjure up a bygone era of mystery and intrigue
The women have a real elegance here that's refreshing to my eyes - and I really mean the Japanese women - not the long legged, skinny, young, western models that are everywhere in Tokyo
Nightingale floorboards immediately conjure up a bygone era of mystery and intrigue
Beer's pretty big as well - Sapporo, Asahi, Suntory and Kirin all do a grapefruit flavoured beer that I love
Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have a weird history - 'cos they're wood they regularly burned down when struck by lightning - so when you visit a temple/shrine complex (they all feature many buildings) you're seeing buildings of many different ages - mind you - they've cracked the burning issue - they're all at least a few hundred years old
Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have a weird history - 'cos they're wood they regularly burned down when struck by lightning - so when you visit a temple/shrine complex (they all feature many buildings) you're seeing buildings of many different ages - mind you - they've cracked the burning issue - they're all at least a few hundred years old
When you enter a store everyone working there welcomes you and when you leave everyone says goodbye (not just the person serving you - how kind!)
How does anybody ever get a sense of their own identity in a place as big as Tokyo?
This is a land where introductions are everything - accommodation has to be booked in advance (turning up un-announced would be rude) and my previous place always booked my next place for me ('if he's been a good guest for them ...')
They love their golf and enormous, netted driving ranges dominate the skyline across the whole country (city and rural)
Their attention to detail is unrivalled anywhere in the world - if you're into, say, anything, you'll be able to get 20 different instruction magazines on it in a store
Their attractions love rubber stamps - my Moleskin is now full of cool artwork!
It's a wonderful piece of land - really hilly and incredibly verdant - but it's not that beautiful - all of the amazing features of the country have come at a cost - this is a land very clearly touched by the hand of humankind - electricity pylons trace across the highest hills (until you hit the very high mountains), massive iron bridges take you across mountain gorges, concrete dams use any running water to generate power and train tracks are everywhere - it's ace in it's own way - but not if you're a landscape photographer - click on this shot to enlarge it and the hill on the left will just about show what I mean!
It's a wonderful piece of land - really hilly and incredibly verdant - but it's not that beautiful - all of the amazing features of the country have come at a cost - this is a land very clearly touched by the hand of humankind - electricity pylons trace across the highest hills (until you hit the very high mountains), massive iron bridges take you across mountain gorges, concrete dams use any running water to generate power and train tracks are everywhere - it's ace in it's own way - but not if you're a landscape photographer - click on this shot to enlarge it and the hill on the left will just about show what I mean!
And the ryokans will stay in my memory forever as the best reason to visit Japan - they're pronounced more like 'rock on' as I learned from a long conversation with a retired Japanese gentleman in Matsumoto the other day - leaving your shoes at the door, donning slippers, sipping green tea with the owner on arrival, taking a communal bath after you've cleaned yourself sitting on a wooden stool, wearing a yakata around all night hoping your queensburys aren't on display and the fresh smell of tatami in the morning - I could go on and on and on - I've never been so comfortable - and I'll miss them more than I can tell right now
Japan - it's gripped - let's try China via the back door - until Hong Kong - it's sayonara ...
1 comment:
hi jez,
Nicholson of the wwe bald variety here. great to see alls still great,I have been keeping up but struggling to find a few mins to blog so sorry old fella.New Zealand my pic of the pops so far.A quite remarkable level of input on the blog front not only are you prolific in your writings but also quite clearly very talented.Glad to see you having such a great time keep safe your chum Matt x
ps swifty was right Nadal v federer
was the greatest final ever... just breathtaking. The best player won.
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