A retrospective on Hong Kong

Day 194 - Thursday 24 July 2008

Hong Kong's crazy - and a must see at some point for that reason alone - but don't hang around too long - it might just drive you a bit nuts!

I ended up staying for just under 2 weeks and I had a good time - mainly because the Yes Inn in Fortress Hill proved to be an oasis in a milieu of surprisingly crappy hostels - which - when you consider Hong Kong is such a hub of Asia - is another reason why Hong Kong just doesn't make sense - Simon, Will and many other really cool international types and travellers who came through our tiny but well air conditioned room made my stay a blast - and not a chore - if you come to Hong Kong and enjoy sleeping in a corridor next to the internet cafe don't stay at the Yes Inn but at Chungking Mansions!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chungking_Mansions

I was really in Hong Kong to take a look and do some work - well - traveller's work - and that means visas and flight arrangements - the visas worked out just right - I got up and in line early - filled out a few forms - got a couple of dodgy mug shots done - and put my best smile on when asking for permission to enter Vietnam, India and Nepal - they all obliged and each illed my passport with a fancy sticker for the immigration officers of their respective countries - the flights almost went belly up when I visited Royal Jordanian to change a date only to find out they'd cancelled my flight out of Delhi without telling me - a flight that is incredibly popular and was full over 3 months in advance - just like the other flights around it for a few weeks - despite the 6:20 (AM) departure time - that's a billion people and a burgeoning economy for you - the Jordanians did put me back on the flight but only after I'd badgered them - and I have a month after trekking to Everest Base Camp to check out the rest of Nepal and India

The main think that sticks in my mind about Hong Kong is the hustle and bustle - people trying to constantly get an advantage - it's either the person pushing straight past you on the MTR (Mass Transit Railway) or the Hong Kong Shanghai Banking Corporation constructing the best building on Hong Kong Island - and it seems to all have come at a cost - anything being old - I'd take a guess that Hong Kong has decided old is bad - 'we need to show off our economy so build a new one' - consequently, the wonderful Star Ferry apart, I can't remember anything looking more than 50 years old - if you're into flashy stuff - and I kind of am - you'd love it - but just like you get temple overload in Kyoto - you get Gucci store overload in Hong Kong - and their stuff's not the bargain it was 20 years ago - I bought a camera (as you do in Hong Kong) and saved the princely sum of 3 quid over Amazon's price! - mind you - I can't knock the HSBC's brilliant architectural style (use Google Images for a picture of their HQ in Hong Kong) and they do have good lions ...

But there's a weird juxtaposition going on here - because the new stuff is the majority - but it's not absolutely everywhere - there's definitely a rough edge to Hong Kong - and that sticks it up there as a must see - I guess it used to be the British v the Chinese money - but now it's well on it's way to being the other way round - although I read an interesting fact that said the world simply doesn't have enough resources to give every Chinese person the standard of living of the USA

But it wasn't all work, work, work in Hong Kong - I did still see it all - just at a more leisurely pace than I'd been accustomed to through Japan

The view from the 552masl Victoria Peak at dusk into night is incredible (committed readers will know that's my fave time to visit any cityscape viewpoint) - it's up there with the very best in the world - arguably better than Tokyo (unless you're as big a Tokyo fan as me) - it looks north from Hong Kong Island over Kowloon towards mainland China - and there's a sneaky look behind to the south and the Outlying Islands that are craggy and quiet compared to the rest of the metropolis - getting up to 'the Peak' is quite a journey - plenty of standing in line - and a tram (that is another old thing to be fair) travelling so steeply through the mid-levels that when you don't get a seat (like me!) you have to lean forwards at about 40 degrees so that you don't fall backwards and all the way down to the sea - Eddie the Eagle would have had no problem - it's also jam packed and virtually impossible to get a decent clear photo at night - unless you pay for one - and then take a photo of their photo - even then - it's certainly not clear!

The physical location of Hong Kong on the edge of the South China Sea and facing the land mass of China gives rise to amazing weather - one minute it's lashing down, the next the sun's out piercing your epidermis and there's the constant mugginess that has shops cranking up their air con to pull you in and buy a cell phone - when actually you were just trying to escape the pressure cooker atmosphere for one minute - although the air quality is surprisingly good (a lot better than Tokyo, Santiago, La Paz, Los Angeles, etc, etc, etc - how sad) - all of Hong Kong's mixture of weather gives rise to fluffy clouds on sunny days that are illuminated by the city lights at night and make looking upwards a joy - you think you're in some Narnia-esque land - it's ace and my favourite thing about Hong Kong - this is the highest building in Hong Kong called International Finance Centre Two (what else - One's the same but a bit smaller!)

The movie theatres/cinemas are plentiful and I made the most if it - including Hancock (better than the critics would have you believe), Kung Fu Panda (a great one when you're in China and Dreamworks best since Shrek) and Red Cliff (a John Woo epic in Putonghua/Mandarin with English subtitles that puts many Western epics to shame) - John Woo is the director from Hong Kong who did Face Off in Hollywood - Red Cliff is a v important piece of Chinese history and here's more ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Red_Cliffs

It's a two parter though - and I only found out in the last minute of the 2.5 hour first part marathon - sadly - I won't be in Hong Kong for the second part at Christmas!

The Dark Knight steals the prize for the best of the Summer though - (my love for Indy aside) - Sin City meets Seven meets Silence of the Lambs meets Batman - so dark, so adult, so superbly acted, so set in Hong Kong and Chicago (I think I know both of those now!) and so brilliantly scored by Hans Zimmerman - the best movie of that comic book type ever! - and it's IFC 2 that Batman leaps from when in Hong Kong

http://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/the_dark_knight/

There are some world class museums kicking around the east side of Kowloon and Tsim Tsa Chui (almost pronounced Chim-Sar-Choy) - the Hong Kong Museum of History, Hong Kong Museum of Art and Hong Kong Space Museum were all well presented, big, and like the rest of the city, make you language lazy - because English is the language of commerce - and brilliantly bi/tri-lingual people welcome you in the correct langauge determined by your look - I had a go at some Cantonese and only found out in my final days that the words I'd been using for thank you weren't words at all! - it's mega-tonal and the same word can mean 5 different things according to whether the a is pronounced in a low pitch, high pitch or combination of the two - add kanji into the mix and Alan Partridge would say 'oh forget it!'

There aren't many places of worship from any religion around Hong Kong (I guess everyone's too busy in their offices) but the Man Mo Temple just off Hollywood Road is one of the most atmospheric I've ever visited - there are rows and rows of incense coils burning away, smelling amazing (it's my top smell in the world) and transporting you to another place - you could buy a plaque to remember your loved one forever here for thousands and thousands of Hong Kong Dollars (there's 16 to the pound by the way) - and in perpetuity be enshrined in a haven of Buddhism/Taoism/Confucianism - they love a mixture of religions here in Asia

The Hong Kong Convention Centre is another monolith of money but hugely important for Hong Kong's Special Administrative Region - this is Hong Kong's official title since 1997 when Prince Charles and Chris Patten handed it back to the Chinese at the Convention Centre - kind of handed it back - everyone says 'I must go back and see how it's changed' - if I were you - I wouldn't bother - yet - because the SAR has to be run as it was under British rule for the next 50 years - so come back in about 40 to really see what impact Chinese rule has had - I've simplified things for literary effect here and there's more to it - ask me some time - either way the Golden Bauhinia is the symbol of 'new' Hong Kong - and golden it really is ...

So to finish off the longest blog in history I'd like to thank China for allowing me to visit them (remember the visa!) and here's some of my observations of Hong Kong (and to a certain extent China)

The people like to 'hock a lugie' - although there are signs everywhere telling them not to spit - or to shout - or to make a nuisance in general - the single party government are clearly controlling their people

Golf's popular and I spent a happy (but expensive - it's for the 'haves') hour hitting unlimited balls at the Island Golf Club that's a netted range (a la Japan) looking out over Victoria Harbour to Kowloon - genius!

They've reclaimed way too much land from the sea and so there are about 3 main thoroughfares on Hong Kong Island - so walking around it is a nightmare - all malls, walkways over roads and crowds figurng out the way!

But they're amateur metro/subway riders - everyone stands by the door so you can't easily get on board - I could just imagine Swifty losing his patience and shouting 'get in' at the top of his voice!

They're well up for the Olympics and the little mascots are everywhere - and Hong Kong has been given the equestrian events (a token gesture from Beijing for my money 'cos there's definitely a mainland/Hong Kong issue I'd say) - so Hong Kong's an Olympic city

The longer movies are more expensive (cheeky but I can see why!)

The landing into Hong Kong is awesome - 'we're landing in the sea, brace, oh no, OK, there's the runway, we're saved!' - not one for the wee Nicholson fella - the South China Sea's behind that plane!

There are plenty of peddlers offering to make you a suit (who are all Bangladeshi or Sri Lankan at a guess) - and I stumbled upon the closed but famous Sam's Tailors in Kowloon (where Michael Palin got a suit in Around the World in 80 Days) - this isn't it - but a proper/non-touristy tailor in Wan Chai who has happy for me to take a shot of his skills

There are quite a few coughs and colds kicking around (but not me I'm pleased to say!) - one of Britain's worst exports?!

Paper was invented in China!

Hong Kong's been reckless with it's history - it's bull dozed it - I was expecting more of an East India Trading Company feel to the place - but for your old sea port feel - head to Sydney - it's definitely not here!

They like their K Circles (one for the boys from Meads!)

Tsing-Tao beer is pronounced Ching-Tow (as in having a row about your salary with your boss not rowing a boat!)

The Pacific Coffee Company with it's free 15 minute access and reubens is awesome - the iced americano is pretty good as well - I love reubens ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reuben_sandwich

Cafe de Coral's char siu (bbq pork, rice and greens) is the best traveller's food for it's money in expensive (for Asia) Hong Kong

And they love Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan - I'll let you guess which one this is - the Kung Fu Pandas amongst you will get it!

But that's all behind me now - for I'm a day out of Hong Kong and China - and in country number 9 of this adventure - Hanoi in Vietnam is my current home - and all the features of the developing world are back - honking horns, a crumbly infra-structure, daily essentials bought off street stalls and that Indiana Jones exploring feeling - only this time - I'm not alone ...

You're out of here ...

Day 179 - Wednesday 9 July 2008

How things move quickly in the world of the budget travel industry - in 3 weeks the Sakura Hotel in Ikebukuro (Tokyo) has added a cafe, cheap breakfast service (it doesn't seem right eating toast and not rice at the start of the day now) and a fleet of great internet ready computers - so here I am again - unexpectedly!

Although there's not a whole load to add - I'm back where I've been before for just about the only time on this journey - and it's been strangely great - travelling back to Tokyo on the shinkansen felt a bit like returning home - and in a way - I guess it was - because a world traveller has no home - 'hello again the Tokyo Metro and Subway' - 'oh, I know where I can eat today, there's that ace place in Ueno' - and I've cherished it - and loved it!

Because last night I enjoyed one of my new fave things in life - I headed off to the Jingu Stadium in Roppongi (the stadium was home to the 1964 Olympics of that Summer) and watched my new team (Japanese anyway) the Tokyo Yakult Swallows take on the hapless Yokohama Baystars











Now you'll immeditaely notice the prevalence of the sponsor in the team name of the Swallows - and that rule presides over the rest of the teams here - expect the Baystars - who are sponsored by a whaling company and dropped that part of their name about a decade ago at the height of whaling controversy - who would like to bet how long it will be until it's the Lichfield E-Initiative Men's Hockey First XI!

I booked my tickets ages ago (and judging by the size of the crowd probably the first ticket sold) so got a front row seat - in right field - right in front of the Swallows bull pen - a brilliant opportunity to snap close up shots of these professionals - and realise how difficult sports photography is - just to get the subject in focus - so I had a go and here's a couple!

Number 48 - Jun Hagiwara - a pitcher who did nothing last night - literally - except chuck a couple of looseners!











Number 44 - Kosuke Matsui - read above for Jun - it's a funny life being a pitcher!

And during the warm up before the match started a funny thing happened - in Japan - and less so in Tokyo but it does still happen - when western faces are in the same vicinity you go 'oh look, someone else who's not from Japan' - and then often share an acknowledgement - and it seems that even the world of NPB (Nippon Professional Baseball) shares this feeling

Because you'll notice in the shot below the face of Wilson Antonio Valdez (I assume ex-Major League Baseball player) - who - as you can see - looked straight down the lens here - and afterwards when I lowered the camera - smiled at me - and we exchanged the afore-mentioned nod and greeting - a top player as well - one of their starting infielders ...

The game itself was a joy - a comfortable 5-0 win for the Swallows and a lesson for sporting administrators that promotion and relegation is a good thing to raise standards - it would certainly focus the minds of the Baystars languishing at the foot of the Central League but ready to play again next year - it took them half the game to get a base hit (someone just making it to first base!) - now I'll admit to not knowing this for fact (relegation not the base hit) - there are minor leagues here in Japan but I'll be amazed if they feed directly into NPB

And as for the atmosphere - well - even a stadium just a quarter full had an atmosphere second only to English football - none of the Chris Daffin school of 'entertain me, I've come here to be entertained' - the craziest, most wonderful people in the world provide their own fun - they sing a different song for each of their players when they come into bat - they raise and lower those umbrellas of theirs 'Mary Poppins style' when they score a run - they whack their plastic bats together - and they contribute to it all being very loud for very long (all 2 hours 44 minutes of the game) - and they just come along to soak it all up after work (an 1800 start time) even if they're an attractive 20 something woman on her own - who kindly took this shot of me immediately before the first pitch - see how quiet it is before the crowds dashed from their offices!

And the reason I love this game so much is that it's so follow-able - no matter what point of the social spectrum you're in - a ticket for 15 quid - a free programme - an authentic replica shirt with a stitched name and number for 27 quid - thaaaaaank you very much - I bought one - and will proudly hang it in my new home!

I also visited the junlge on my way back to Tokyo and got a bit of a shock when I pulled back some long grass and saw one of Asia's finest creatures staring back at me - I'm actually typing this from Tokyo General Hospital nursing my shredded body back to ...

Only joking - bloody good display of animals at The National Science Museum in Ueno Park - an enormous room that covered most of the 5th floor and had almost 100 of the world's most amazing creatures in a glass cabinet - for the first time on this trip it put New York to shame - namely the National History Museum that was very big but had tired looking animals compared to this lot - now I'll admit to being weirded out by 'stuffed animals' - which I guess these were - but they didn't look it - I asked and was told they were stuffed - but I think it might have been lost in translation - they looked like plastic models to me - the Japanese are the best in the world at making toys and things remember - and they had Japanese cavemen that looked amazingly life like - and presumably they weren't stuffed! - anyway - all in all - the Japanese do science very well - a fabulous sphere of a cinema journeying you across and into the planet - and a real feeling for me of being somewhere very different from what I know - because Asian dinosaurs are like nothing I've seen before - and I've now seen a lot of dinsoaurs (including a real footprint in Utah remember!) - horse looking creatures with a tiger like tail and the teeth of a T-Rex - not to mention the deer like antlers - yep - ignore the McDonalds - I'm very clearly on the other side of the world - here's a good example and one for George, mini-Flake and all the other kids!

And changing angle I've now experienced all the range of Japanese accommodations having stayed in the Capsule Inn in Akasaka - these were the places made famous (for me anyway) when Michael Palin used one during Around the World in 80 Days (and it may have been the exact one I used?!) - they're placed in downtown areas of Tokyo for businessmen too lashed to make it home - in fact - maybe I'll open one in Reading ...

As you can see - it's a bit like a dorm room - but for 60 people - I had a top capsule and shimmied up those steps in my yakata (which you'll remember is like a dressing gown) - now going up was OK - but coming back down is a different thing - you try doing it when you're nipping out for a Jimmy Riddle without displaying your crown jewels to the world - Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton, Britney Spears - I now know how you feel ...

And here's the surprisingly comfortable room - you can see the metal control panel that does everything except get the thing to leave the earth's orbit - just out of shot on the top left is a TV where I watched the Fed-Ex v Nadal match until they went off for rain and it turned into the best match in history! - contrary to rumours it was easily long enough - and very relaxing after a communal deck level huuuuge bath with plenty of other Japanese men (women are't allowed and it all feels a bit like a working men's club!) - the only problem I had was reflected by how hard the Japanese work - the beeping alarms in the control panel started going off at 0420 and seeemed incredibly difficult to switch off - but all in all, amazing - it was really awesome to have a travel experience that was simply about sleeping!

But before Tokyo I headed into Northern Honshu to rural (for Japan) Yamagata and reminded myself that this was real travel - having to use my best Japanese (which now feels very comfortable just when I no longer need it) and navigate around where there are no other western faces - well - except Steve from Cannock who'd just married a Japanese woman and moved to Yamagata to teach English - there's that weird, coincidence-loving world working again!

I headed to Yamagata for one reason - a mountain top temple complex called Rikkashu-ji but commonly referred to as Yamadera - the mountains were believed to be sacred and the boundary between this life and the afterworld - consequently, there were hundreds of graves and stone lanterns (not to mention Summer flowers!)

There were uber-cool sutras (Buddhist versions of scriptures) carved into the rocks - and the necessary steps - thousands of them to the very top - in 30 degree C heat - I thought some people heading up were going to melt - but the Japanese do sweating so nicely - they all carry a flannel and periodically wipe themselevs down - here's the complex - shot very hazily on my little camera - and the point at which I've put 'a decent piece of photography equipment' on my list of desires for the future - along with a new job I guess - enlarge the shot and look on top of the rocks on either side of the little valley - it's also a good display of that Japanese vegetation - all cedars, maples and bamboo here!

And here's the view from the temple at the top left - now converted to a viewing platform - but imagine monks from centuries ago, sitting cross-legged on tatami mats and contemplating the mysteries of life over this view (that would have been even more amazing if it wasn't the rainy/hazy season!)

I don't think I've explained before but on the way into a Buddhist temple there's very often huge (3m) guardian deities that are ornate, resplendent wooden carvings - and Risshaku-ji was a good example - they're often elaborately painted, always dramatic and sometimes have a little Buddha at their feet ...

But after this bonus post that really is it for Japan - in the last couple of days back among travellers I've been reminded that this country attracts the geeky kids from school who have now grown up - although many are still pretty young - and it's under-standable why - for the 21 year olds who have done New Zealand - go to Japan on the way home - it's even more safe - but will shove you right out of your comfort zone (where you need to be when travelling) - especially when it comes to food - I'm leaving now and my digestive system has done squishy octopus legs, velvety conger eel, crunchy squid and what I can only guess was spine of some sort?!

Oh well - it could be worse - I could be heading to China next ...

The hills are alive ...

Day 173 - Thursday 3 July 2008

(Another double blog day so check out my early summary of Japan - you know where to find it by now!)

So I've happily dug into the heart of the Japanese Alps for the last week and when I left you last I was going to attempt to trek around the picturesque village of Kamikochi - the National Park's biggest draw card - the expensive bus trip (25 squid for a few hours travel) got me out of rather dull Takayama and to a glorious alpine vista ...

... cloaked in some of the heaviest rain I've ever experienced - it is rainy season here so this isn't whinging - I knew it was going to rain and went anyway - I'm continually pushing each day to do stuff regardless of the conditions - I may never be back to these places so I've got to get out there - instead of trekking I watched lots of videos in Japanese about Kamikochi's wildlife and warmed up in the 'good as the USA ones' Visitor's Centre having got soaked and cold in the space of a 400m walk from the bus stop!

To see how nice it is (and it was the first time I really got to see Japan is at it's untouched finest - you have to search hard and high) click on the link below to the admittedly Japanese web site - I'm stood on the lovely wooden bridge taking the picture above!

http://www.kamikochi.or.jp/

The next day I traversed the Alps by going back, around and up their other side to Matsumoto - because despite me waxing lyrical about the trains here last time - not even the Japanese have blasted a train track through a range of mountains that peak with Mount Hotaka at 3190 masl - and I wasn't about to spend more money on the bus over them when I had the golden ticket of a JR Pass in my hand - they really are one of the world's best travel bargains (unlimited use of the trains for 3 weeks is 25o pounds) - providing you don't just go from Tokyo to Kyoto and back - in that way - they push you to travel around a lot and see plenty of Japan

Now Matsumoto should be very high on anyone's list of Japanese experiences - but not for long - just give it a day - and what a relaxing day you'll have - Matsumoto is small yet snazzy - it wouldn't surprise me to see Stella McCartney walking down the street here - it's cosmopolitan and chic - I arrived to find the sun out, the air clear and my ryokan by having to read kanji (the first time my accommodation has not had a sign in English) - it sat right next to a rushing river lined by old fashioned properties and waaaaay in the distance, soaring mountains - this shot was taken just 3 paces from my ryokan's front door (and the ryokan was dated back to 1868) - how good is all this!




















The next morning I browsed the Matsumoto City Museum of Art and checked out some cool landscape work by Japanese artists nestled alongside a collection of Pop Art from the 1960s to 2000s - classic Andy Warhol, the ace Roy Lichtenstein, brilliant Vik Muniz and fancy David La Chapelle

But most people head to Matsumoto for their Himeji-esque jo (castle) - darker in colour than Himeji (it's black and nicknamed the Crow) it was first built in 1595 for the shogun and their samurai - it has a very cool 'invisible' floor (from the outside you can see 5 but when you get in there's actually 6) - samurai would hide there during a siege and when the attackers thought they were getting the upper hand then the defenders would all jump out swords slashing away!

The side of the castle had a very cool moon viewing pavilion that was open to the skies on all sides for socialising, watching the stars and, no doubt, some romantic activities - it was built during a period of peace up here in the mountains - if only it were open - I had to be content with snapping away from the side of the moat ...

Matsumoto City Museum (that your castle ticket also lets you access) had a huge array of guns (blunderbuss style) and had me reminding myself (and now telling you) that the samurai didn't totally dismiss firearms - in fact - one old ukiyo-e (art print) had a samurai in a boat attacking the castle - he was stood up in a canoe taking aim - now I've been in that castle - he must have been easy pickings from anyone similarly armed directly above hiding behind solid walls and poking his gun through a gap!

But now I'm in Nagano (pronounced with flat a's like a nag) - the observant amongst you (which will be most) will remember that this city hosted the 1998 Winter Olympic Games - and rightly so - for it's another cool, trendy mountain vista'd resort (it claims the title 'The Roof of Japan' - although I could claim to be Brad Pitt and I'm clearly not - I bet Matsumoto and others would question them) - but I'm off my point ...

Which is - I'm a bit skeptical of enormous, commercially driven sporting events - not for what they are at the time which I'm sure is awesome and I'm looking forward to London 2012 - but for what they leave behind when they're gone - an era of brilliant sports development where a city is transformed into a hotbed of sporting talent - or a rusty medal podium that's been turned into a car park ...














But despite the remaining availability of Nagano 1998 stickers and t-shirts the Olympic Games are history and what this city is really famous for is Zenko-ji - a very liberal minded, and consequently, hugely powerful Buddhist Temple (where sub-temples are everywhere and one runs a very average Temple Inn across the Alps in Takayama!)

Zenko-ji is actually awesome - it's full of fairy type tales involving priests and, apparently, holds the oldest Buddhist image in Japan dating from 552AD arriving here from India via Korea - called 'Amida Triad sharing one halo' - an ancient oracle decreed that it must never be seen so skeptics think the ark it's contained in (their words not my Indiana Jones ones) is empty - to quell such types the shogunate in 1702 got a priest to check - he said it was there and remains the last confirmed person to see it - mind you - if you were sent to check - would you tell all of Japan it's a myth?

They had the nicest security staff ever who were very happy to take shots of people and the temple - and bits of tree sticking out from the right ...
















Inside it's very golden and has a superb Okaidan - a low (I was doing my Hunchback of Notre Dame impression) pitch black tunnel that goes underneath the main altar and places you nearest the hidden Amida Triad (vertically of course) - I ventured forward, especially when prodded from behind by a Japanese guy really keen to find what lies inside, and when I reminded myself that I'm not scared of the dark - for it's really, really dark and there's a bell - called the Key to Salvation - it's said that if you find it and ring it you'll be saved forever - and I did - so that's me set up for the rest of my days and I've been walking with a spring in my step ever since!

And not surprising when I also clapped eyes on the most beautiful Buddhist image I think I've ever seen - isn't the casting of this just unbelievable - I'm not sure of the significance of the hat and bib (that are on many statues in Japan) - I need to check that out - if anyone's got a minute then find out and let me know!





















And we're right up to date again after I've hit the internet cafe today hard having woken up feeling a bit rough and finding out that the speed skating arena I planned to visit was shut - see - I rest my case!

By the way - it's been bloody hot now that it's stopped raining - but weirdly - not unbearable - which is what the temperature reading in the middle of this Japanese neon in downtown Nagano yesterday would have you believe - I think I've been away so long my body doesn't know where it's from, what's normal and what's hot or cold - so I've just about completed my journey to being an adventurer - in fact - I know I have - three Japanese school girls walked towards me down the street yesterday and started whistling the Indiana Jones theme tune - get in! - I kid you not - I knew I bought that new Kathmandu hat for a reason ...














Now strangely internet access has been ace on the road but wasn't so good in Tokyo - I've done so much today I probably won't blog again until I'm into Hong Kong - 10 days or more from now - so blog fans - I guess you'll have to read a book for a bit instead!

Summing Japan up early!

Day 173 - Thursday 3 July 2008

I know I haven't left yet but the internet access is good here in Nagano and I fly out of Japan a week today - I'm a fast learner so you can have this one a bit out of sync!

Just how do I do this - because Japan is the most fascinating place that I've visited yet - and I say that 'cos even after a month here I still find myself, everyday, going 'wow - check that out' - but here goes ...

You have to understand that the Japanese read right to left, back to front and, awkwardly for a westerner, top to bottom

Loads of people still cycle everywhere (while texting!), on the pavements away from the dangerous cars, and they leave them everywhere - but there's not a lock in sight

Because the crime rate's so mega-low (compared to many places) and it feels like the safest place on the planet - hooray and take a bow Japan - this is how the world should behave - kids still play in the streets, young women hang out at dusk in parks and you don't have to think twice about walking down a dark alley - it's worth visiting for this wonderful feeling alone

You have to 'do a Mickelson' all day - that is nod courteously to everyone you interact with - if you're now sure what it is - ask Matt Nicholson - he's got it down perfectly

There are loud public announcements in open spaces from speakers hidden in trees!

They love baseball - go Swallows!

They're umbrella mad - and stick them in plastic bags in shops to they don't get the floors wet - and many are cutely see through - even for businessmen

Who also join all the kids in having a little toy dangling from their mobile/cell phone - often with a jangly bell!

Wellington/gum boots (flowery) are very in with the women of Tokyo this season!
I think I covered the future of mobile/cell phones in a blog picture but remember it's all about TV and watching the news on your way home on the train is real, here, now

The Japanese are the world's best sight-seers/tourists - they follow a young guide round in big buses - the guide's dressed very smartly, walks quickly and waves a flashy flag - the tourists dress in very fancy (better than anything in the USA) trainers and outdoors gear

They're so clean they place a member of staff at the bottom of elevators who cleans the hand grease off the big rubber tube you hang on to - picture cloth and determined expression!

The rubber stamp (that superseded the ancient seal) is a signature here - they're legally binding and registered with the government

Geisha's do still exist (although in smaller numbers than ever) and I saw two in the Pontocho district of Kyoto - in fact - I even made eye contact with one which is v rare - in fact seeing the real deal at all is rare - many are just tourists dressed up!

The language is like nothing I've attempted before - the intonation of words (look it up Nev) is flat - there's not an 'a' sound as in father - it's more like an 'uh' - and the sentence structure clearly inspired George Lucas' Yoda - there's also no word for OK but instead they say 'hai' (yes) instead and a lot - but when you crack a bit of it and engage it feels great - and the Japanese giggle so beautifully at your attempts my advice is get stuck in and have a go!

The food is top quality and wacky - the octopus leg dumplings remain my favourite - wherever you go it's brilliantly presented and impeccably clean - to a sugar fueled westerner it's not always tasty - I can barely tell my tofu from the gelatinous sweets that aren't sweet 'cos they're rice based - but no complaints - they adore profiteroles - I've barely used the Lonely Planet for recommendations - everywhere's good - but I haven't done that much sushi - I've enjoyed noodle slurping too much!

I now realise that religion the world over is big (if not the biggest?) business - Buddhism is probably more important here than Catholicism is in South America - and stick me in a Buddhist temple and I feel weirdly contented (mind you - I always should be in 2008!)

The women have a real elegance here that's refreshing to my eyes - and I really mean the Japanese women - not the long legged, skinny, young, western models that are everywhere in Tokyo

Nightingale floorboards immediately conjure up a bygone era of mystery and intrigue

Beer's pretty big as well - Sapporo, Asahi, Suntory and Kirin all do a grapefruit flavoured beer that I love

Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have a weird history - 'cos they're wood they regularly burned down when struck by lightning - so when you visit a temple/shrine complex (they all feature many buildings) you're seeing buildings of many different ages - mind you - they've cracked the burning issue - they're all at least a few hundred years old

When you enter a store everyone working there welcomes you and when you leave everyone says goodbye (not just the person serving you - how kind!)

How does anybody ever get a sense of their own identity in a place as big as Tokyo?

This is a land where introductions are everything - accommodation has to be booked in advance (turning up un-announced would be rude) and my previous place always booked my next place for me ('if he's been a good guest for them ...')

They love their golf and enormous, netted driving ranges dominate the skyline across the whole country (city and rural)

Their attention to detail is unrivalled anywhere in the world - if you're into, say, anything, you'll be able to get 20 different instruction magazines on it in a store

Their attractions love rubber stamps - my Moleskin is now full of cool artwork!

It's a wonderful piece of land - really hilly and incredibly verdant - but it's not that beautiful - all of the amazing features of the country have come at a cost - this is a land very clearly touched by the hand of humankind - electricity pylons trace across the highest hills (until you hit the very high mountains), massive iron bridges take you across mountain gorges, concrete dams use any running water to generate power and train tracks are everywhere - it's ace in it's own way - but not if you're a landscape photographer - click on this shot to enlarge it and the hill on the left will just about show what I mean!

And the ryokans will stay in my memory forever as the best reason to visit Japan - they're pronounced more like 'rock on' as I learned from a long conversation with a retired Japanese gentleman in Matsumoto the other day - leaving your shoes at the door, donning slippers, sipping green tea with the owner on arrival, taking a communal bath after you've cleaned yourself sitting on a wooden stool, wearing a yakata around all night hoping your queensburys aren't on display and the fresh smell of tatami in the morning - I could go on and on and on - I've never been so comfortable - and I'll miss them more than I can tell right now

Japan - it's gripped - let's try China via the back door - until Hong Kong - it's sayonara ...