Sunday, May 18, 2008

The kingdom of Rohan ...

Day 126 - Sunday 18 May 2008

OK - I'll admit that on Saturday I had a final treat here in New Zealand and paid lots of money for a 4 wheel drive adventure across the Canterbury Plains into the Southern Alps to Mount Potts High Country Farm to stand on the top of Mount Sunday - but ...

I closed my eyes for one second - transported myself into the mindset of JRR Tolkein and Peter Jackson - and I'd arrived at the city of Edoras in Rohan - I was Aragorn - beard and all!



















Well - I can but dream - it's an illusion of course - but this is where Peter Jackson decided to create, in my opinion, the most dramatic of all The Lord of the Rings settings - I'm stood here right outside the front of the Golden Hall and behind me is where the other buildings at the front of Edoras were positioned - it's pretty much where Eowyn stood and soaked up the 360 degree view of snowy mountains - a 'secret valley' is how Sir Ian McKellen described it - I'd describe it as my second favourite place in New Zealand behind Milford Sound - 'I bloody love it!'

This is the view we had when we arrived - we were driven by the very friendly guide Rex who worked in production on the movies and kept his cards very close to his chest when he regaled us with stories from the sets - I reckon he was either over protective or just pretending he was there!
















It's hard to describe the scale but from this vantage point it's probably 10km to Mount Sunday that you can make out just below the middle of this shot - Mount Sunday is at 611 masl and the highest mountain around is at Mount Potts at 2184 masl - the entire valley was carved by another huge glacier back when we humans were in nappies yet the rocky outcrop that was to become Edoras somehow resisted and ends up standing out proudly

Here it is again from a closer view (salty spots on the lens and all!) and this view for me really epitomises the harsh high mountain landscape of this part of New Zealand - the touch, tussocky grasslands are clear to see in the foreground - and it's about form this angle that Gandalf, Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli first rode into Edoras - really - go and get The Two Towers out and check it (I'd kill for a portable DVD player right now!)











Rex of course had plenty of items for embellish our photos and this flag had the 'Property of New Line Cinema' tag still attached to it - sweeeeet - you'll see that we had an unreal day of weather again - it wasn't even windy which this location was notorious for - I'm practically lying this flag out to get the shot - to the right of my left hip is the final Beacon of Gondor that saw Aragorn sprint into the Golden Hall and demand that King Theoden send his Riders of Rohan to help Gondor - oh yes!
















So what a crescendo to end my New Zealand antics - and what final antics they've been - having arrived in Christchurch late on Friday and having negotiated half the world - something, somehow contrived to land a friend of mine from days in The Lawn Tennis Association on the table opposite in Mum's restaurant (not Wyn's) on the corner of Cathedral Square at exactly the same time as me - she'd also made her way half her way round the world (the other way!) and had been in Christchurch for just a couple of months - wow - Melissa - it was a real joy to bump into you and Josh and a huge thanks for having me round to visit on Saturday night - I don't buy all that 'small world' crap (that's quoted by people flying everywhere who should try some overland travel and then make the same statement) - but a weird and spooky world - definitely!

I'm not making it up - here they are in their very cool, sweet as, urban-Kiwi apartment - complete with retro-boxing gloves - these guys are stars!











Christchurch by the way was built to replicate a classic Church of England community based around a massive Anglican Cathedral - they succeeded and the place is full of English street names, pubs, a meandering River Avon and an Arts Centre that was Canterbury College and could easily be in Oxford or Cambridge - lovely and comfortable - just like my now-broken-in-and-not-nicked-yet North Face pants!











But tomorrow that's it - my time here is over - and this is the first time on this voyage of discovery that I'm genuinely very sad to leave somewhere - it'll all be forgotten when I see Rousey of course (I hit Melbourne tomorrow night) but I'll allow myself this bit of reflection on an incredible few weeks now

Usually after about a week in a new country I start to make a list in the old Moleskin notebook about what issues are standing out and making it unique - here it is word-for-word for New Zealand!

Equality = professional netball on TV and 3 most important people in House of Representatives are women
Awesome second hand bookshops
Superb recycling and 5 Green Party in House of Representatives
Coffee shop overload but loads of independents and very, very few Starbucks
Flat white coffees!
American (not British) brands on the high street
A constitutional monarchy but the people (not the Queen) in charge
The happiest people I've seen since Colorado
Everything's 'sweet as' when it's OK
The bus drivers are the most customer friendly in the world
Hokey pokey ice cream
Aotearoa (Ow-tear-or) in Maori
Lemon and Paeroa drink
The countryside's diversity in short distances is mind blowing and still looks untouched by humans
Very direct rugby commentary about a player play acting - 'was that an Oscar?' - 'definitely a nomination' - sweet as!
Sparrows fly indoors to coffee shops resembling Snow White and the Seven Dwarves!
Turqouise-y clear rivers
Deer, cow, sheep and alpaca farming
Nuclear free and making a stand against the USA!
A big Asian population and many Asian tourists
The best, by far, set up and philosophy of any country for backpacking and travelling!
And ... the Autumn is the best time to come ... well done Jez you fluky bugger!
















See you on the other side of the Tasman Sea - but not for a while - me and Rousey have got some hanging out to do!

10 comments:

Sally Elliott said...

Jez how exciting - sitting here watching Indiana Jones and the last Crusade and thought what better accompanyment (Nick told me how to spell that and I am not too sure!) than Jez's blog. It's even better this time round - Harrison and Sean are great! Went to Wembley yesterday which was awesome ; such a different (and better) atmosphere than going to see an England game. No royalty there due to Princess Anne's sons wedding but my dad was over the moon when we discovered who the guest of honour was - much better than royalty was Sir Bobby Robson. Elliott was awaiting me in Richmond with his school friend Julian so you can imagine the state they were in after 7 hours of drinking when I got to Richmond!! Some things never change..
Have a great time in Australia and keep it coming
Lots of love
Sally

Anonymous said...

NZ seems amazing. I think landscape wise it beats anywhere in the world. The LOTR stuff clealry right up your street and topped off a great leg of your trip. You really are on the other side of the world, but you are getting closer. Say good day to Rousey and have a blast.

Swift

Anonymous said...

Kia Ora Jez
It was an absolute pleasure to meet up with you here in our new homeland of NZ. It will take us years to do what you have just done in days, however we will be doing our very best. Its great to hear your comments on the country and reassuring during our tough early days in that it reminds us why we came. Have safe travels mate and lets not leave it what? 18 years until we meet again.
Rob Buckland

Anonymous said...

TO THE TUNE OF INDIANA JONES.

DA DA DA DA...DA DA DAA.

DA DA DA DA...DA DA DA DA DA.

DA DA DA DA...DA DA DAA.

DA DA DAA DA, DA DAA DA, DA DAA DA

DA DAA DA DA DA.

YOU LEGEND.

Anonymous said...

Those pictures of the Fjords looked amzin Jez. NZ is sooo beautiful, if only had our culture would be the perfect place. Felt like I'd gone back 40 years in time when I was there, don't know about you. Pace of life, values and wot not

Russ

Van said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Van said...

Jezdiana,

I can’t quite believe all the fun you have been having whilst I have been engrossed in work and all that guff over the last month or so. It’s taken me some time to catch up on your travels since the delights of South America and it’s been a right old yarn.

Sharing your journey is like listening to ‘Uncle Travelling Matt’ come back to ‘Fraggle Rock’ to tell all about the world beyond!! It’s been a great to hear your latest exploits. You commentary continues to inform, captivate and amuse us dullard Fraggles back here on the Rock!!
It’s amazing that you bumped into Melissa by the way. I trust you made no mention of Seibel and nerdy techy LTA talk!! Great to hear she’s living it up (another wise move me thinks!!).

I just can’t remember if I told you that ‘Mini Me’ is on the way for September 14th - ish (forgive me if I have). Yes, my lovely wife if up the duff and beginning to show now after about 24 weeks. Claire has progressed through the sickness and cravings (apple juice and pies), and is doing OK at the moment. So, the family may well have grown by the time you are back, and we’ll have made a multitude of parenting error’s I’m sure!!

Right then, I’ll try and keep more up to date in future. Take care and I look forward to the next few chapters of your ripping yarn…

Van.

PS: Hope you’ve given some Kiwi’s stick about the first test!!

Jeremy Lemarchand said...

Well everyone thanks very much for your latest comments!

Glad you enjoyed Wembley Sally and Sir Bobby was way better than one of the Royals - good luck dealing with Els after that sesh!

So right Swifters - it was a remarkable leg - and that beauty will stay with me forever - I need to watch LoTR again so badly!

Great to hear from you again Rob and tough it out for now - book up those trips to all over the South Island with the family and it'll all be worth it! Yep - it won't be 18 years till we meet again I'm sure!

Indy booked for tomorrow Tatey you legend - seen it yet?!

Russ you've nailed it - the pace of life means the quality of everyone's life is what the world should be - just perfect!

Cheers for checking in again Van and glad you've survived the Spring madness - you did tell me about Claire though not the pie craving! - what a star she is - better than ice cream that one! - the Fraggle Rock reference is first class!

Blogged again about Australia everyone!

x

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Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!

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