It seems really over-whelming to recall for you the JOURNEY of the last few weeks as I sit back here in Kathmandu having just sipped a strong coffee and washed my hair twice in 12 hours
For the only people who will ever truly understand the sense of accomplishment and achievement following our trek in the Khumbu Region of Nepal's Himalaya's are those who were there - a group of people I'd now proudly describe as friends - but then I wouldn't be any type of budding author if I didn't give it a go ...
The thing that sticks in my mind the most is the company - it truly was an incredible group of people with a very like mind - and for that I am so grateful - one other trekking group we came across really hit that home - my trekking partners were cool, laid back, open minded and, most importantly, using every bit of their abilities to get over four high points in the Himalaya and only then kick back and celebrate - it's therefore no surprise that with a bit of support in a variety of directions we all achieved that goal set out by Ashok (100%) just under an hour after meeting up!
I said JOURNEY earlier and it really felt like that - I get what Frodo was struggling with for all those days and days now - for it was long, repetitive and a mental and physical battle - not often - but frequent enough for me to mention it here - at first it all felt fun and jovial, then in the early middle you really hit your stride and got used to the daily routine, then in the late middle the height and the distances started to add up and the legs and lungs felt tired, and then in the end it was a downhill sprint of clear skies and 'jouss'ing (cheers in Nepali!)
I hope I'm not making it sound tooooo hard - 'cos it wasn't - at no real point did I feel I wouldn't make it - in fact my health in the mountains was superb - yes, for one of the first times in life I found my almost 37 years telling in a physical challenge on the final peak of Kala Patthar when I abandoned all trekking techniques just to get to the top - but on reflection I still had more left - I've been saying summits and peaks on IIJCDI but really they were pinnacles and passes - I've quietly set my sights on some 'trekking peaks' either back here or maybe, to warm up, in the European Alps - any takers Mr Swift?!
For mountain health it was all relatively straightforward - just follow the tried and tested LOCAL advice and learn from the experts - namely, the guides and inhabitants of those incredible high lands - so it was all eat local (stuff they can grow up there - potatoes and vegetables - don't try meat - it's got a long way to travel uphill and won't be very fresh by the time it reaches a few thousand metres - the veggie diet suited me but it won't become full time!) - and drink plenty of water - and when you feel saturated, drink some more - so my bursting at the seams First Aid kit remained relatively untouched - for the record I only suffered one headache and used just 2 Paracetamol, 4 Ibuprofen, 4 Strepsils and a dab of Tiger Balm - I didn't even get a blister - that glacial mountain water is bloody good for you I reckon - although it does taste weird having been treated pre-consumption with Chlorine tablets - the whole trek's like slowly draining the Beijing Olympic swimming pool!
And the accommodation and washing facilities - well - they're simple - just as they should be - within a minute of being 'on the trail' you soon realise how anything gets anywhere in the Khumbu Region where there are no roads - it's carried - often by men either young enough to be just out of school (child labour's a thing of the past thankfully) or old enough to be your Dad (the new multi-party government is still working on pensions) - so if you want to park your backside on a bit of porcelain to go to the loo ... some poor bugger has to carry something very heavy on their back/head a long way up a steep hill - 'save yourself my friend - a squat toilet's second nature to me now' - and there's a reason the tea houses (mostly called 'The Himalayan Lodge') are made of plywood walls - it's light - still carried in massive sheets strapped together mind you - and power - well it's a commodity up high - that costs a lot - so you might get a hot shower if it's been sunny (solar powered) - but you'll be charged the cost of your accommodation again for it - 'no worries my kind host - I've not really washed for a week so why change the habit?!'
The washing scores for a few weeks in the Khumbu Region of Nepal =
Hair - Once (freezing water/day in Namche Bazaar on the way up)
Armpits/Upper Body - Twice (See above and Dingboche in the warm sun on the way down)
Feet - Once (The Ding, Phakding, in a bucket on the way down and only right at the end!)
Groin - ummmmm!
Clothes - Never (the socks were a little interesting by the end!)
But did I smell - not really - you just don't sweat much when it's around zero all the time, the tea house has limited heating (the lounge yak dung burners did the business and were ace - sometimes!) and you're stood on a glacier!
So how do I sum it all up to give you a flavour of the route - well - the most important thing to mention is the lucky choice - if Rousey Son could thank his mate Paul from St Kilda in Melbourne for the tip off of Everest Base Camp VIA GOKYO that'd be ace (Paul did it just this year) - the Gokyo bit turns a straightforward up and back march along heavily trodden routes into a round trip where you rarely see the same scenery twice - it also gets you off the beaten track into proper, remote Yeti country that's mystically misty and quiet - the second thing to mention is the time of year - we were one of the first trekking groups to head out post-monsoon season and were actually just pre-trekking season - consequently, we enjoyed good weather and a peace on the Himalayan trails that enabled us to appreciate a rugged wilderness that must have been difficult for the lines/queues of trekkers we passed every few metres on our way down - for it really is that - rugged and wild - and boy did we see some wildlife - many, many spottings of vultures and eagles swooping above us on thermals under a blue sky (for those big predatory raptors you've got me Gars!) alongside Himalayan deer and goats chewing the grass and looking out down the valleys from rocky outcrops - and that's not even mentioning the yaks who can't survive at low altitude but have developed their bodies to thrive on the thin air above 3000 metres and are my third fave animal in the world (remember - kangaroos at 1 and water buffalo at 2!) - but don't confuse them with the lower altitude jodpes (a kind of cow that is yak-ish!) - and get out of it's way when you're walking along the edge of Himalayan cliff tops!
And a word on Mount Everest - for it's size it's an elusive bugger - from this southern, Nepali side it hides - blushing in the early morning sun behind it's massive neighbours of Lhotse (8516) and Nuptse (7864) - even from the Everest Base Camp you can't see the summit - as the highest point on the planet it's the most vulnerable to cloud flooding up the Khumbu Valley from Namche Bazaar and covering it's peak from prying eyes - did I see it - yes I did - in fact I stared in awe a few times at the summit and marvelled at the bravery of the early pioneers who stood on it in lambswool sweaters and duck down jackets - but it's a long way down my list of favourite mountains in the Himalaya - for it's shape is just a bit dull - too rounded for my tastes - I'm more of a pointy mountain man where glaciers, snow build up and seracs (look it up!) are poised ready to fall thousands of feet in a defeaning crescendo at any minute - and for that it's a faves list of 1 = Cholatse 6335 (never summited 'cos it's so steep!) 2 = Kantega 6783 3 = Ama Dablam 6814 - so I ended up coming to the Himalaya not for one mountain but for the Himalaya as a whole - a mass of tectonic plates that crashed together farther back in time than us mere mortals can possibly comprehend - my eyes just melted at their combined beauty ...
Here's a 'for the record' shot of me, Mount Everest (the summit licked by cloud) and beard ...
So a quick day by day breakdown including heights above sea level (the summit of Chomolongma or Mount Everest is 8500 MASL and Ben Nevis in Scotland is 1344 MASL) and highlights of the day (there'll also be the odd lowlight of the day!)
(These may or may not get a photo each at some point depending on internet connections - this post could well be a work in progress! - no - it's gripped - aren't I good to us all!)
Day 1 - 18/09/2008 - Lukla (2840) to Phakding (2610)
HotD = the Indiana Jones 'Yeti Airlines' (really!) flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on a twin engine plane/bus with an open cockpit where you can see the pilots FLYING the plane (no autopilot on those bad boys and they need to see where they're going!) - truly dicey and brilliant - but tragically dicey as well - one of the exact same flights crashed just a few days after we were back in Kathmandu killing all the trekkers/pilots on board - my thoughts are with them ...
Day 2 - 19/09/2008 - Phakding (2610) to Namche Bazaar (3440)
HotD = the 100m high suspension bridge over the milky white Manje Khole River and steep gorges flanked by impossibly steep cliffs bearing thick pine forests - a lot like the Evergreen Forest from The Raccoons (80s cartoon - check it out!)
Day 3 - 20/09/2008 - Namche Bazaar (3440) - Acclimatisation Day
HotD = first v early morning for our first glimpse of the Everest Himalayan Range (and Everest itself) in the dawning light - and - strolling the streets of the Sherpa capital alongside yaks carrying expedition gear, stocking up on Chinese knock off trekking gear from over the Himalaya and listening to Tibetan refugees endlessly chanting 'Om Mani Padme Hum' (hail to the jewel in the lotus) - sadly on CD not in real life
Day 4 - 21/09/2008 - Namche Bazaar (3440) to Dhole (4110)
HotD = the contrast from going higher in the Himalaya (hot/sunny in the AM and cold/misty in the PM) necessitating the first real yak dung fire to huddle around!
Day 5 - 22/09/2008 - Dhole (4110) to Machherma (4470)
HotD = nipping out for a middle-of-the-night pee to the outhouse 50M from the front door of the tea house - I tried to forget that Maccherma is the site of the most convincing yeti evidence ever - two yaks found dead with broken backs and a missing girl in 1974 ...
Day 6 - 23/09/2008 - Machherma (4470) to Gokyo (4790)
HotD = the bluest/greenest/holiest lakes in the world at Gokyo - and - adjacent sharp peaks when the clouds cleared for, literally, a second
Day 7 - 24/09/2008 - Gokyo (4790) to Gokyo Ri (5357) to Gokyo (4790)
HotD = pre-dawn (4 ... AM!) start and v, v, v, early morning view of 1KM wide Ngozumba Glacier
Day 8 - 25/09/2008 - Gokyo (4790) to Thangnag Kharka (4700)
HotD = snowy walk across the living, melting, moving Ngozumba Glacier - 'so this is what the moon looks like!' - truly remarkable
LotD = arriving in Thangnag Kharka while a dead body from an Indian party was brought back to the village and 'stored' in a nearby cave - the man died just an hour away up the Cho La Pass - our destination for the next day - a sharp reminder that you're not in charge up there - the mountains are - and they'll decide your fate ...
Day 9 - 26/09/2008 - Thangnag Kharka (4700) to Dzonglha (4830) - Via Cho La Pass (5368)
HotD = another pre-dawn/nervy start and the mountains decided to smile on us with the clearest weather of our trek - vast vistas, the bluest sky I've ever seen, brilliant deep/fresh snow, a safe climb up the Cho La Pass, a heart racing descent down the other side ... - need I say more - the best day of my whole adventure?!
Day 10 - 27/09/2008 - Dzonglha (4830) to Lobuche (4910)
HotD1 = waking really early to more clear skies, jumping out of bed and turning into my ace Dad - just me, the dawning sun, frosty ground, massive Himalayan peaks and my CAMERA - I was literally the only person up and felt like I'd landed in heaven or nirvana?!
HotD2 = repeating the above in the late afternoon from the rocky outcrop looking straight up the Khumbu Glacier (see the photo in the post 'Too incredible for words ...' and the 'map' version here!)
Day 11 - 28/09/2008 - Lobuche (4910) to Gorak Shep (5140) - Return Trip To Khumbu Glacier/Everest Base Camp (5364)
HotD = slipping and sliding over the 15KM long Khumbu Glacier, soaking up the sight of the incredible 15M high ice pinnacles, safely reaching our goal of Everest Base Camp and watching avalanches crashing down on the way back to Gorak Shep!
LotD = being on my chin strap for the final few KMs ...
Day 12 - 29/09/2008 - Return Trip To Kala Patthar (5550) - Gorak Shep (5140) to Dingboche (4410)
LotD = pushing myself to the top of Kala Patthar and missing ace views of the Himalaya 'cos of cloud!
HotD = tabbing hard for 12KM down to Dingboche in inclement weather with barely a break and sipping the sweetest Nepali masala tea on arrival - and - memorial cairns in the mist to those who've died on Everest
Day 13 - 30/09/2008 - Dingboche (4410) to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4800) to Dingboche (4410)
HotD = a repeat of Day 10's HotD (only a new range of mountains to gaze at in awe!) - and - a surprisingly steep climb up to Ama Dablam Base Camp and the place that would have been an even better Kingdom of Rohan (LotR) if Nepal was a feasible place for Hollywood!
Day 14 - 01/10/2008 - Dingboche (4410) to Tengboche (3860)
HotD1 = strolling around the incredibly placed Tengboche, snapping shots of Everest and visiting the Tengboche Monastery where they 'supposedly' had a yeti scalp for many years - it got nicked!
HotD2 = cleaning my teeth in a pre-bedtime blackout and looking upwards to see soooo many stars with the Milky Way emanating out of the top of Mount Everest - and then being distracted by monks chanting and one dashing up the Tengboche Monastery steps by hiking his robes up to his knees to search for candles - magical
Day 15 - 02/10/2008 - Tengboche (3860) to Namche Bazaar (3440)
HotD = I should really say the wildlife but it was sipping a half decent cup of coffee for the first time in a while and buying stitch on badges celebrating our four 'summits'!
Day 16 - 03/10/2008 - Namche Bazaar (3440) to Phakding (2610)
HotD = listening to Maoist activists walking the street with a mega-phone to publicise their pressures on Tengboche tea house owners to lower food prices for Nepali porters (currently, outrageously, the same as for trekkers) - and - snapping in admiration for the final time the incredible strength of Sherpas
Day 17 - 04/10/2008 - Phakding (2610) to Lukla (2840)
HotD = celebrating our 100% successful journey by feasting, drinking and dancing the night away with our guide, assistant guides and porters - by eating yak meat, swigging Kukhuri rum straight from the passed-around bottle and dancing to Nepali folk music - life doesn't get much better than that!
Can you believe it?! A trip to Nepal and a Himalayan trek are the perfect antidote to a stale few years in a country like the UK - it'll test you (physically and mentally), make you give up every day desires (like a clean toilet and washing!), provide you with the best food (simple, very/very local and tasty), make you go 'wow!' more times than you can remember and, above all, make you want to come back ...
Here's my Himalayan observations ...
The mornings are the clearest part of the day and the cloud, generally, builds up throughout the day
The network of tea houses is sometimes cold, sometimes cosy, has more expensive food than I expected and fueled by yak dung patties (ace green work Nepal!)
Yaks are long haired and jodpes are short haired!
Drinking more water than you can handle will make your pee crystal clear - and frequent!
There's no mirrors anywhere so you won't be able to see how rough you look - and who cares anyway?!
Peaks higher than 5500 MASL are covered in lovely white snow all year
The porters are tough as NAILS and make hockey players look soft Growbag (even me and you!) - believe me - I tried it for 1KM!
The Sherpas are great quarriers and stone workers - they get it fitting so finely in houses there's no need for mortar
The mountains are totally in control and teach you patience - if it's cloudy, it's cloudy and it'll clear up when it's ready - so don't worry about it - 'control the control-ables!'
The air is so clear it's almost tasty - although it's a bit thin in O2 - we were regularly getting only 50% of sea levels!
Sagarmatha National Park where we trekked has zero raods - how many other National Parks in the world can say that - but sadly - it does have rubbish - this is beauty with that frustrating, developing world tinge - come on everyone (you, me, the First, Second and Third Worlds)
Guides and porters keep going thanks to rakshi (rice/wheat alcohol and pretty tasty!)
There's a dominating, snowy mountain around every corner
It has a majestic size that makes it, arguably, the most beautiful place on earth (right in the mix with New Zealand and probably better!!!) - views stretch for 15KM across chasming valleys!
The local people are great but very used to trekkers and the tourism industry so I didn't feel the magic ...
So I didn't really photograph them as a result - but the landscape's so unreal you're too busy pointing your camera skywards anyway!
Beards grow beautifully un-itchy in the mountain air - and are a post-trekking must!
During Chairman Mao's Great Leap Forwards (!!!) in the 1950s and the start of the Chinese occupation of Tibet, Tibetan monks fled over the Himalayas and their presence dots the landscape in prayer flags of various colours representing the 5 essential elements of earth, wind, fire, water and iron (the romantics say the weird last one is love - I'll go for that!)
It's a guess (deserts?) but I'd say the densest collection of stars in the world can be seen in the Himalayas
Tibetan momos dipped in sauce!
Places like Namche Bazaar and Kathmandu that feel basic the first time you visit feel chic and cosmopolitan after a few weeks in the high Himalaya
OK - that's it - just leave many of my other suggestions for another time 'cos you owe it to yourself to trek in the Himalayas ...
See - it was all so amazing - I've totally forgotten that I broke part of my tooth off (apple pie!) and had to visit a Nepali dentist the day before we jumped on our flight to Lukla - thank anyone for those topper USA Embassies - I found a USA standard clinic that was set up for Embassy staff and got a new filling/ace advice about my teeth that I've never had in the UK - when you're on the road there's a story round every corner!
And finally - I love this post which is why it's massive - please tell everyone you know to check it out!
53 comments:
Jez - love your work !
Good to have you back safe and well. It must be difficult to put something so awe inspiring into words, but you have done a great job. I love the pic of the mountains on day 9, the sky looks amazing and with the snowy peaks in front. I am very envious. Breathing 50% O2 reminds me of that lab test I did at uni, breathing through a long tube to create dead space in the lungs, even at a gentle pedal on the exercise bike my lungs were bursting. Gars and jane got a good send off, you got a mention in the speeches and we all got pissed and danced the night away.
Enjoy the rest of the trip.
Swift x
Wow, great work as ever Jez and just an amazing account of something that i for one for just love to do. Not sure about how passionately you talked about the mountains i think being away so long is catching up with you but awesome work with the beard. As for carrying the packs and being tougher than hockey players, i am sure you are right but never the less there can be no doubt that one of your beautiful tackles would bring them down!! Season started with 3 games in and 4 points so could be worse just missing your good self on and off the pitch. Keep 'living the Dream' fella.
GB xx
p.s. Photos for right out of the top draw, you could be the new Lord Lichfield!!
Get rid of the beard Jez -I am most concerned re your post trekking promise of a beard!!!! Looks totally stunning what you have just done. Infact it seems totally unreal and I can't believe you have really done it.... Swift mentions "we all got pissed" - from the only sober one let me tell you he and Nicholson were more than just pissed, as was Coxie!!!! Very entertaining they were too! Lots of love
Sally
Hey gang and a welcome to Edd (the trekker far right holding rum and coke in a Sprite bottle in the 'partying with our Sherpa friends' shot! - the boys were on 'rum with a rum chaser' that night!
As were Swifters, Matt and Coxie by the sounds - thanks for the update guys and glad you all had a blast at RJ/JJ's bash - if there are any photos kicking around mail me a few?! (I should have asked you to take some Sally) - and I forgot to pass some words to Ceej to read out - but I've mailed the newly weds to explain I was otherwise distracted!
Thanks for your very heart warming comments - it truly was all unreal - I'm sure I'll look back for years to come and go 'wow!' - I feel suitably proud - but also thinking it was the start of something bigger and better from me - speaking to my friend Rob, an Ironman triathlete, in Wellington gave me a few 'mega-challenge' ideas - watch this space
The beard's had a chop this morning Sally but it's not all gone ...
Ha! V amusing Swifters - there's an Italian lab just below EBC if you want to repeat that test at 5000 metres! - and that's two dance offs Nev's had without me now - I hope she's not traded me in!
And bless you Bag - I am loving the photgraphy - if only Princess Di was still around for me to photograph as the new Lord Lich! - I think you're right about mountain descriptions - I guess I let the photographs speak (the one of the porters, bottom right, and the high snowy peaks may be my fave of the whole year?! - but then I keep saying that!) - sounds like an acceptable start to the season - I trust you're throwing around a few tackles for me - and see Sally - a beard appreciator!
Intuitively put GB - for the first time of the journey I'm a little knacked - but it could just be post-trek blues - I need a new stimulus from a new country - India on Wednesday and a final Nepal summary before then to look forward to - it's all but done - tune back in!
J x
im sorry sally but im must proteset the beard must stay ! it was grown with great thought and care and to discard it now would be sacrilegious. Vive la Barbe !!
I am truly horrified Jez. We can't leave you for 5 mins to your own devices before you hook up with new beard appreciating friends!!!!!! To be honest though - you can grow whatever you like, just can't wait to see you....
Ha! Good beard related banter Edd and Sally - and Sally - you should see it now after Pokhara based trimming/shaping session! - and bless you - can't wait to see you too!
J x
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