Crazy Nepal's been just a treat (and this post's not for the sensitive!)

Day 276 - Tuesday 14 October 2008

Our top guide Ashok holding the yeti footprint that we produced and is now hanging near Sir Ed Hillary in Rum Doodle's Bar and Restaurant in deepest Kathmandu (that's him on the left side of the foot - Sir Ed - not Ashok!) - Rum Doodle's is an institution in Nepal and gives free food to Everest summiteers for life - it's like a who's who of mountaineering and all the greats have their signatures all over the walls (Sir Ed, Reinhold Messner, Rob Hall, Gary Hall, etc - sadly many of these legends are dead - mostly killed by mountains) - but if you're in Kathmandu - give our yeti footprint a kiss!
















I feel really privileged to have been in Kathmandu for so long (no fewer than four separate stays at the Kathmandu Guest House which is my favourite accommodation in the world now - having taken over from the Hostelling International New York on the Upper West side) - I know the backstreets well - and the eateries of Thamel amazingly well - so I thought it was fitting to show the beard again (before it got 'shaped'!) and me sedately enjoying a garden cafe breakfast in the final days of the Intrepid gang's stay ...











And what a few days of hanging out - you remember the Indra Jatra festival that I attended - well in Nepal there's always another one waiting round the corner - last week it was their biggest (in terms of public holidays and partying) called Dasain

Dasain celebrates the Hindu goddess Durga's victory over the buffalo demon Mahisasura (already intriguing huh?) and to worship Durga they hold special events in sacred places - THE most important event is probably in Kot Square in Kathmandu's Durbar Square - Kot Square is closed for most of the year and was the place where Jung Bahadur Rana arranged the famous 1846 massacre of all the high ranking civil officials, making himself Prime Minister and ushering in the period of Rana rule - as we were weirdly ushered forwards (Nepalis were being moved on) I turned the corner and saw a strange sight - a large calf noosed to a stake and a nearby Gurkha soldier, gleaming khukuri sword raised and biceps bulging - a single blow later, the calf's head was off and it's carcass was being dragged round the stake in a clockwise circle by it's hooves ...



















And there begun the sacrificing of what seemed like an endless procession of calves and goats at 6 focal points of Kot Square (we literally arrived at blow 1) - it's immensely important to Nepalis and sacrifices were going on at temples across the country - it was one of the strangest experiences of my adventure and I feel very fortunate to have watched - or been allowed to watch I should say - the place looked closely guarded and we were met by Major 'Liaison' who I assumed was in charge of public relations

The calves and goats were initially calm - but as the sacrifices went on - you could tell they knew something was up - this clearly wasn't your average day trip to a capital city - I'm not passionate enough about to animals to feel disgusted at what I saw and I'm not bloodthirsty enough to hang around longer than 20 minutes after the first calf was disposed - I respect the Nepalis and their culture - and only hope that the loss of these animals brings them the good fortune they believe it will - but I'm not sure ...
















http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dasain

Away from the animal slaying I used some of my final days in Nepal to get out of Kathmandu and take a look at the Himalaya from the other end of the range - the western end - Pokhara is perfect for doing just that and takes a day on the bus from Kathmandu through valleys of gushing gorges flanked by crumbling stone hillsides - the ride itself was spectacular - especially on the way back to Kathmandu when they didn't have my reservation and I had to ride in the front cabin with the driver - unspoiled views and air conditioning of the gods - they're always some of the best days when you're travelling - we even got a slap up lunch!

Pokhara sits just south of the Annapurnas and feels a bit like a beach resort - it's right on Phewa Tal (Fewa Lake) and people go for two reasons - to chill by the lake and look at the views - or to use it as a base for treks in the Annapurnas - me - I did the former having accomplished my trekking goals - and a fine assortment of coffee shops, internet cafes and places to read Lonely Planet India I found - the Punjabi Restaurant served amazing food at the cheapest prices in Nepal yet - and really got me in the spirit of India early

And as for those Pokhara views - well - if you ever head this way the Annapurnas do what the Khumbu Region did - invariably cover themselves up in cloud from about 9am - but at 6am - well, they're simply stunning ...




















You've probably seen a picture of Machhapuchhare in your life - it's name means 'Fish Tail' in Nepali because it has twin peaks shaped like that - but you have to go another 20KM west of Pokhara to see the other one and I've already assigned my fave mountains - but Fish Tail is the sharply, triangular peaked mountain in the middle of the shots - it looks the highest but actually it's far from it at just under 7000M - the Annapurnas behind are around 8000M - but they look smaller 'cos Machhapuchhare is closer to Pokhara - forced perspective that always keeps you on your toes with your map out when you're in the Himalaya - and notice the cloud in the shot below - it was taken just one hour after the shot above - going, going, gone!

























Pokhara is also home to the International Mountain Museum which is full of superb mountaineering photographs - notably from the first successful summit of Everest (what else!) and the Japanese Alpine Club - it also comes to the same conclusion as Reinhold Messner (and now me) that the yeti is all based around a chemo (bear-like creature found in the Himalaya) - but this photograph that was on display is still very, very, very, strange ...




















And then - just as I thought my final views of the mountains were behind me - the clouds lifted and I had the clearest mountain sunset of all my days in Nepal - it really is quite incredible to see the Nepali sun go down and slowly turn white, snowy mountains orange/red/black - so I dashed back down to Phewa Tal and made an amazing photographic discovery - sometimes you sit in a spot with your camera aimed at the obvious - you then look over your shoulder and you get lucky ...




















So that's country number 12 - and here's Swifty's fave - the Nepali observations (that I made outside the mountains) ...

It's another spitting culture (like China) - only in China they're trying to stop it using a poster campaign - here it's just a part of life - you get used to it!

This is the third poorest country in the world and it's noticeable - there's only really 2 roads out of the Kathmandu Valley (one heading west to Pokhara and one heading north-west to Tibet) - the muddy main streets in the capital really make you hope the country develops - mind you - the Nepali's don't seem that bothered - until you get them on tarmac ...

The Kathmandu-Pokhara Greenline bus driver would give Michael Schumacher a race - the first man to test my new 'un-travel sickable' traveller's constitution - but I have to own up and say I cheated by grabbing the 'tourist bus' because the LP suggested that travel by local bus in Nepal is v dangerous - and looking at the rammed, OLD, creaky buses the Nepalis use I'd agree - I'll shut up about bus prices in the UK - it's a great service - and I hope all Nepalis get lucky and travel safe

If you want a souvenir t-shirt here in Nepal you'll get one that's hand stitched on an old Singer sewing machine by a guy in his shop -the whole country's a wonderfully McD's free zone but that doesn't stop them being satirical ... (don't blame me - I'm just the observer!)











Be switched on - there's a 13% government tax and 10% service charge on all accommodation and food - not good 'budget' news towards the end of a year on the road

Although there's no real set price for ANYTHING (except food and drink) - everything's fair game for bargaining - especially accommodation! - 30% off the first quoted price is about right - they offer you a price - you halve it - and then both meet somewhere around the middle

I think I mentioned this before but the Kathmandu roof tops have, maybe, the best views across a city in the world - and it wasn't even that clear for me - there's snowy mountains behind those Himalayan foothills that are incredible in themselves - it's worth coming to Nepal just to sit on top of Helena's Restaurant sipping coffee!

It's a 7 days a week culture here - a bit like Vietnam - you can get anything, anytime, anywhere - providing it's not night time (v early to bed, v early to rise in Nepal) - or during one of the many, many wonderful, religious festivals!

Kathmandu has the closest international airport to a capital city in the world (in my experience) - just 5KM and, if you time it right, just 15 minutes - too easy as GB would say!

The cow is sacred here in Hindu dominant Nepal and so they're hugely respected - so respected that they're allowed to wander wherever they wish - often down the busy streets of Kathmandu during rush hour - where they're often given the right of way!

Men hold hands and put their arms round each other while walking down the street as a sign of friendship - it's not connected in any way to sex and is awesomely refreshing - the Nepalis are so right here and it's superb that they've not succumbed to the macho stuff that predominates our culture

On it's 'Exchange Rates' board The Himalayan Bank still shows the price of gold bullion! - I guess a throwback to the old trade route over the Himalaya that started just north of Kathmandu's Durbar Square - now if only I had a suitcase full to go and sell!

Some travellers really go for the Buddhism thing and shave their head (women) or go for the Indian traveller look of full beard (not women)

Nepali masala tea is sweet, milky, clovey and was my drink of choice at any pause in Nepal adventuring!

Kathmandu and Pokhara have the finest selection of mountain related bookshops you could ever wish to see - they even stock old, special edition National Geographic magazines that featured the Himalayas - it's so easy to lose hours in them - and spend a fortune!

Pokhara is the jump off point for trekking in the Annapurna region - a snap observation would say that it all feels a bit twee and easy - it's peaceful, green and a short bus journey to trails full of guest houses providing fresh water and hot showers - the hard core stuff jumps out of Kathmandu on the Lukla flight (it's still unreal mind you and I need to come back some time and trek Annapurna to really qualify this fun observation!)

Sitting in Pokhara feels very alpine!

The older gents here wear a cool topi - a multi-coloured, fabric hat that sits atop the head and balances there by forces un-natural!

A beer will double your cafe/restaurant meal bill/check - I succumbed for a few days in Kathmandu and can highly recommend the Everest or Nepal Ice - the Gurkha was loved by the Intrepid lads (hey Edd?!) but not me

Kathmandu looks totally different once you've been trekking - far more cosmopolitan, far more swanky and far more chic - sipping an icy cold Everest and smoking a cocktail flavoured shisha (to quote DJ 'it's a bit like smoking bubble gum') never felt so comforting (who needs the trappings of the western world!)

So that's it - and just 4 countries left to summarise - how will I ever replace Nepal - me and my fave mountain (Cholatse), a final scene from the bewildering Kathmandu Valley (the, 'I'm not sure I should watch burning people', sacred Hindu temple at Pashupatinath) and 'Hindi Britney' (found in a Phakding snooker hall!) - see you in the land of a BILLION people!