Now there's something you don't see every day. And a real reminder of Italy's past links to fascism. This is a model toy store and those are die cast, hand painted, carefully constructed representations of the world's most infamous leaders of the 20th Century. And tucked away in Florence. Well, it is the birthplace of the finest sculptors that ever walked the planet.
But this is more like what you come to this rightly lauded part of the world to see. This is a copy of Michelangelo's David sitting proudly in the middle of what is Piazzale Michelangelo affording stunning views back over the historic city of Florence in the heart of what is now damp and soggy Tuscany. But even in this bronze version of a marble statue you get an idea of how the outrageously talented Michelangelo wielded his iron tools to re-create the human form. The real David dominates it's purpose built home, the Galleria dell Academia, in 'downtown' Florence. And I can comfortably say that it's the best piece of sculpture a human being has ever created. Again, this is me considering 'best' as something that imitates real life. David (he of David and Goliath fame) looks like he might, at any minute, jump down from his plinth and tower all of his 5.16M of height over you. In the same way that Goliath would have done to him all those years ago (supposedly). I was simply not prepared for it to be so big. I thought it was like all the other sculptures. Standing about the same height as, or a bit bigger than, a human. But this is gargantuan beauty the like of which I've never seen before.
But Florence is full of this stuff. If you're into history or art (or even better the history OF art) you need to be here. Florence was home to the Medici dynasty that dominated this part of the world between the 13th and the 17th Centuries. They were credited with leading the Italian Renaissance and they commissioned many of the works of art that I have been waxing lyrical about for the last couple of blog postings. Well. Them and the Vatican City. Here's another of my favourites. Perseus has just seen off the Gorgon and is holding her head triumphantly aloft. It sits averagely alongside about 10 other statues of mastery in Florence's Piazza della Signoria and is a stone's throw away from one of the world's best art galleries. I'm talking top 3!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medici
The Uffizi was simply a joy. And what a time to come. The middle of Winter when all the infamous crowds, queues for tickets and bustling for space in front of the Botticellis was simply non-existent. I loved every second of the entire day I spent wandering the galleries. It holds, probably, my favourite piece of Renaissance art anywhere on the planet. I'm well into my weird mythology these days. Must be all those hours spent on God of War! It's Caravaggio's Medusa (again!) and here's the Wikipedia link to the maestro. You'll have to search harder for the art I mean. But it's on a big, old, wooden shield. And you can't miss it. Renaissance art's bad boy was the tortured genius of his era!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caravaggio
Many people come to Florence to check out The Duomo that stands proudly at the centre of historic and modern life in this city. There's a crypt and excavations to check out but you have to go up for the real action. You get treated to an up close and personal look at the inside of the dome. Art of an incredible size, quality and theme. Plenty more incredible depictions of the contrast between heaven and hell. Check out the freaky guy in the middle bottom of this shot devouring a human who's clearly not lived the most righteous life! So just you watch out everyone ...
And I lucked out the day I climbed to the top of The Duomo (whose bells wake me up each morning 'cos I'm staying that close to it). It didn't rain. In fact it was clear enough to enjoy the Tuscan hills rolling gently and spectacularly into the distance. For those who like these shots from up high on this adventure. The Uffizi is middle left just between the high towers in the Piazza della Signoria and the River Arno meanders through the place just before the ground starts rolling into those hills. Piazzale Michelangleo is top left. Anyway. It's gorgeous. Trust me!
Here's that view from Piazza Michelangelo and check out this DIY shot of me and Florence. See the uncontrolled hair, the stern look and the tired eyes. OK Jez. I think it's just about time to go home.
I just had a meandering, mooching in Florence, final Sunday of this trip and look who I stumbled across whacking golf balls into the River Arno. This shot is taken from the Ponte Vecchio. The swanky, historic, beautiful bridge that's full of jewellery shops. And, for one afternoon at least, the European Tour's best golfer of 2008. (Padraig Harrington can't be happy about that). See below for Robert Karlsson of Sweden about to sweep another beauty into the yonder. He's on a better plane than Sir Richard Branson and wandered into the crowds to do his Christmas shopping afterwards. Where I also bumped into Tom Lehman from the USA. The afternoon was like a game of international golfer 'Celebrity Squares'. And if you're wondering. Yes. This is the stuff Rob Jackson calls work. It was all to market the clothing brand Conte of Florence. But it didn't make me want to spend E200 on a jumper. Boy how I've changed!
This next shot is rapidly becoming one of my faves of the year. Mainly because it was taken by an Italian guy on a cold and rainy Saturday morning in ... Pisa. But then you knew that. Well, the Pisa bit. He was charming (something I've noticed has been sadly lacking here back in Europe where people seem unnecessarily unhappy) which is why I love it. And there's more to this story. I saw him again later in his job as a 'litter picker upperer' around the Piazza dei Miracoli where all the action in Pisa takes place. I reckon he's someone who may have travelled in the developing world in his life. Picking up litter in one of the prettiest places in Europe isn't a bad job compared to some that are out there.
The Piazza dei Miracoli came to it's grand stature in the 12th and 13th Centuries when the Pisans controlled much of the Mediterranean around the Tyrrhenian Sea (look it up history fans). They were great sea farers and, in a remarkable switch of skills, pretty adept at handling the old stone buildings I'd say.
Although the whole Piazza is a dream in white (and green) marble reminding me, in a subtler way, of the Taj Mahal. Pisa is rightly all about the torre. The Tower. The Leaning Tower. And, 'easy there Lesley', it really, really, does lean. In fact. It not only leans. It's also sunk. By a load. And the door's all wonky. All of this precipitous state began immediately after it was being built. But onward they went. Finishing it with an abnormally 'high on one side' final tier to try and balance it all out. I guess you'd have to say that it hasn't fallen over yet so it worked. But the international team that 'steadied the ship' during the 1990s must also take a huge amount of credit. They've not only stopped the lean but they've got it heading towards straight again. Thanks to removing the soil from the non-leaning side. In a compensatory move because it was a shift in soil the other way that stared all this. And created a stream of tourists taking comedy photographs. I feel a bit 'too cool for skool' these days. So I declined. But Pisa is very, very worth a visit when you're in Italy.
Just like another super-power of Tuscan days gone by - Siena. Siena is home to the bi-annual 'Il Palio' horse race. Sadly, not taking place when I was in the city but a definite for the future I think. A chance to try out another of those travel and 'you must be here then' adventures. And very do-able from Florence that is a great central point for exploring.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Il_Palio
Il Palio and Siena is all about jumping in that time machine and landing firmly in the Middle Ages. For it's twisted turn after twisted turn of narrow, closed to modern traffic, streets that link enormous religious buildings to each other and hang on, by their fingertips, to the side of lung burstingly steep hills. I swear if you came here in the middle of the night you'd see monks in heavy robes skipping through the city on the way to flog themselves for another sin they feel they've committed. For I don't make this up. In the Chiesa di San Domenico in Siena is the very flaggellation device that Saint Catherine used. Alongside her head. The Catholic Church here in Italy have a weird line in reliquaries (bits of their dead Saints). Blog regulars may remember that Saint Catherine is of 'Saint Catherine's Monastery in Egypt at the bottom of Mount Sinai' fame from just a few weeks ago. Was that all!
Siena was also home to the producers of the latest James Bond movie - Quantum of Solace. If this shot of Il Campo and the Palazzo Comunale (town hall) looks familiar it's probably 'cos you were staring at the cracking Bond scenery and not Daniel Craig. For me. I've not been anywhere where I could see the latest Bond. These days it's all real life to me my friends.
And so, sniff, my last place of this incredible year is Venice. Venice, Venice, Venice. It's simply enchanting. What a location. A city in a lagoon. I mean whoever thought of building a city in a lagoon. Didn't they know about global warming back in the early days of humanity. You probably saw Venice in the news a couple of weeks ago under the greatest flood in ... 26 years. What a genius bit of reporting and hardly news. 'And this just in. Venice has had it's most rain for ... the last few weeks'. They're prepared for it here. Everyone seems to just don a pair of fancy wellies/gum boots and get on with their lives. I admit the water was lapping at the very edge of pavements/sidewalks when I arrived but a dry day or two and it's dropped back to normality. The walkways they use here during flooding are all being taken down again and it's open for business.
My business has focused on just delighting in this incredible place. Nowhere have I been on my travels quite like this. I'm sure you all know it. The criss-crossing streets, the dead ends (unless you have a boat or can walk on canals), the green/blue hue of the water, the fact that the water is sea, the mask shops, and all, in all, the ultimate medieval experience. I want to come back here during it's carnival and enjoy the fun if anyone's up for it ...
I thought that the Piazza San Marco was ... OK. It's not incredible compared to similar places in the world. It's not quite as jaw dropping as I'd hoped. But it's pretty special none-the-less and I admit I didn't see it at it's best in the Winter's pouring rain! But the view from the top of the Campanile on a rare clear morning was 'first class'. It's strange how you can see the surrounding sea but not the canals. It could be another coastal city until you get on foot and amongst it. But the view of the Dolomites gleaming in their fresh, white snow really made me realise how special it is here. And how good the coming snow sports season might be in Europe?!
And I do love it. Another incredible set of artists have left their mark everywhere. And the names have changed. I'm now in the Renaissance domain of Tintoretto, Canaletto and Veronese. The last perhaps my favourite. It was very cool to seek out his his local Chiesa di San Sebastian where he's left his mark all over the inside and is buried alongside his famous artworks. And right next to a canal of course. But not that the gondolas have been getting much business this week
But the Galleria dell Accademia is where the art's really happening. Vast rooms, Carpaccio's unbelievably detailed and storied 'Cycle of Saint Ursula' and sadly, like many places here in December, undergoing renovations so the building's covered in scaffolding and rooms are closed. I guess it's more proof that you can't be everywhere at the perfect time. The Basilica di San Marco was similarly adorned but inside the gold mosiacs covering the roof were something to behold and the charging horses above the entrances were ... ready to charge. I didn't pay the extra to see the real ones inside. I kind of covered all that stuff, in a better way, with Marcus Aurelius in Rome. But the best bit of the Basilica is the constantly undulating, mosaic floor that reminds you just how precariously this whole, fascinating city is balanced on the edge of this great country.
But my favourite part of Venice was easily the Palazzo Ducale. Or the Doge's Palace. The Doge was the Duke of the Venetian Republic and the Palace was his place of work and his home. Elected for life the Doge was not allowed to leave the Palace alone and only allowed to leave Venice for a few days under good reason. His role was to serve the Venetian people. And that alone. Amazing. I've now learned just how powerful a place Venice has been in history especially by using it's sea base. Marco Polo was a Venetian for example. And Venice is stuffed full of the treasures of war looted from Constantinople (Istanbul) during the Fourth Crusade instigated by Doge Enrico Dandolo. At Palazzo Ducale you can tell. The armoury is a joy in bringing the medieval spirit of this place to life. The armour is familiar to British eyes but with a very extravagant flair. The long, ornate pikes are just awesome. The prisons were nowhere to find yourself. You found your way to them via a misdemeanour and a series of hearings in Council of Ten chambers resplendent in dark wood and amazing art. A last walk over the Bridge of Sighs where you got a final look of Venice in all her glory (she's depicted as a woman in numerous artworks) and ... 'say hello to your new home'. The floor was cold, the prison was tucked away and the walls still carry the etchings of people slowly going mad. Mind you. Casanova managed to escape from there. But the best bit lies at the end in one of Europe's largest rooms of the time and still containing one of the world's largest oil paintings. Tintoretto's Il Paradiso covers one end of the Sala del Maggior Consiglio (the Grand Council Hall). Democracy had one of the most stunning settings of all time, even back then, and as a spectacle it's Venice's version of the Vatican City's Sistine Chapel. Head straight for it the next time you're in Venice. Preferably right at the end of the day when it'll be just you and the masterpieces.
On the Ponte Rialto just metres from the great Antica Locanda Sturion (my place of residence this week).
And for the final triumphant time (I can hear Christmas music playing in the background so my time must be up) here's the observations about my last country - Italy!
You have to validate a travel ticket immediately after you've bought it. So although it's been given to you by the machine in front of you it's necessary to stick it back in again to get a few more numbers printed back onto it. Weird and the point for which is lost on me.
Italy's not really a place to be when your budget is running out after the end of a year on the road. Everything's expensive. Mainly not helped by the £ hitting it's all time low against the e-uro (that's how it's pronounced!). But come on Italy. E1.50 for a Twix and my chocolate intake's taken a nose dive!
The greatest artworks in the Christian world are protected by very loud, very high pitched alarms should you lean too close to them. Like I've been doing regularly now my eyes haven't had their specs on for a year. I may never take them off ever again!
There are wonderfully few supermarkets and wonderfully prevalent old markets. In fact Italy brilliantly backs all the independent sellers. It's beautifully USA chain store free. McDs excepted. Pants!
These gorgeous latin lovers. There are condom machines everywhere which is clearly linked to the regular, outward displays of affection. And with women this beautiful it all makes sense. 'Sexy ladies and oven gloves'. We could learn a lot in the UK from the Italians about passion ...
Cobbled, 'twist your ankle for fun', streets. Some of which are over 2000 years old. Roman roads!
It might only be cafe Italiano's from now on. And boy are they strong. And thick. And heaven!
All sipped early doors or after pizza. Which must only be thin crust from now on as well.
It's all a culinary joy. Even the cheap, tough to find, backpacker food is unreal. It's been so good not to have to search for food. It's all ace. Especially ancini (risotto balls). No that's not a delicate condition I've picked up.
TV is very popular. Even in restaurants alongside your evening 'out' meal.
Florence is rightly called one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I'm just trying to work out if it's a bit too tidy for it's own good. But this is how human kind's impact on the world should have been managed. All the buildings are just a few stories high. The ancient Duomo is still the biggest building for miles around!
The Catholic Churches are full of confessional booths. Advertising the opportunity to confess in any language you'd like. Those incredibly multilingual priests. Maybe the amount of confessing is linked to all the condom machines. Hmmm?!
Churches have special lighting that work by a E1 'donation'. They very often light the church's finest artworks. I have to admit to jumping on the back of other people's payments to get a shot of a lit masterpiece. Thanks everyone. I'll return the favour when I'm working again!
Chinotto is just one of the quinine flavoured 'Coke' drinks that I love. The best is probably by San Pellegrino. Like a soft drink tasting of wine crossed with tonic water.
Rome's got way too mnay Egyptian obelisks. The craziest of which come sout of the back of the Elephantino just by the Pantheon in Rome. That one really should be in Egypt.
Girls. It's all about tight jeans and knee high leather boots if you want to walk like an Italian. And if you've got legs like a Roman goddess that'll help you blend in.
Naked sculptures were very 'in' throughout the Italian's time on this planet. The penises are all small and often hidden. But the boobs are on display and plentiful. I think it was the men who dominated the art of sculpture ...
Sky TV is around. And I'm typing this while watching The Simpsons on the Fox Channel in ...
The best hostel in the world. Academy Hostel just metres from The Duomo in Florence. Seriously. You don't need cold and inhospitable hotels when you have places like this. The best way to end my hostel use this year. I don't think it's on this site but it should probably have a similar site all to itself. In fact it does.
http://www.famoushostels.com/
http://www.academyhostel.it/
This is the most stylish country I've seen. Ever. And alongside Japan (in a different way) it's showing the rest of the world how to be stylish. From the food, to the accommodation, to the public transport and, of course, to the dress sense. This is how we should dress in the UK. It's so great to see. (Lose the board shorts and thongs everyone. We're not in Australia. It pees down all the time in Europe so stick on a smart pair of jeans and shoes!).
Italy. You've been a brilliant choice for last place ...
1 comment:
Maybe you like my page about Carnivals in Tuscany
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