Day 232 - Sunday 31 August 2008 - 'Where did all the love go ...' available NOW in 'My blog's are archived here ...' down the right hand side on IIJCDI and on all good blog sites (and some rubbish ones!)
Day 225 - Sunday 24 August 2008
Imagine your nearest cathedral, then imagine 100 of them, then imagine them spread over an area the size of your nearest town, then imagine that town to be smothered in tropical forest, then imagine the temperature to be 32 degrees C, then imagine the humidity hovering around 80%, then add poisonous snakes, big biting red ants, black and yellow spiders the size of your hand, millions of chirping cicadas, brilliant butterflies, a squadron of dragonflies, sucker footed lizards, scuttling beetles and troops of monkeys - then leave it all alone to crumble and ruin for almost 1000 years - you've just arrived at the Temples of Angkor
OK - sit down - make yourself comfortable - and settle in for a healthy read - this stuff's unreal - and I know I've probably said that a lot on this adventure - but this time I really mean it - and there's a top prize up for grabs at the end of this post - so enjoy!
When any explorer ever says that you must go and see Angkor Wat it's a bit of a misnomer - yes - you must see Angkor Wat - but that's only one small part of the story - what you must actually see are the Temples of Angkor - many, many, many of them
Macchu Picchu sits atop it's amazing setting in Peru almost alone - yes there are other structures atop Huayna Picchu - and in the Sacred Valley you'll pass many ruins - some close to Macchu Picchu on the Inca Trail - but nowhere nearer this volume, size, density and preservation
Or maybe I should say restoration - for this whole area of temples in northern Cambodia is a work in progress - Japan and India seem to dominate the scene - and Cambodia are obviously leading the way themselves (they're not sitting back and letting others do the work for them - much of modern Khmer culture leans on the ancient civilisation of Angkor for it's meaning) - but many diverse countries have bases here and teams working on the ruins - for it's all one enormous jigsaw (not helped by the Khmer Rouge killing many of the only experts and destroying the only copies of the solution) - the temples are in ruins - and pieces lie scattered in every direction (often accompanied by a small white number scribbled on them by an archaeologist)
And yet there's so much stone here - many of the iconic temples, despite their ruinous state, are complete enough for you to imagine yourself as a pilgrim who's just made a two week journey on foot through a dense jungle canopy full of elephants and leopards to pay homage to the Hindu gods Vishnu or Shiva
For don't make the mistake I did - and believe that the Temples of Angkor are all about Buddhism (Mahayana Buddhism - the 'great vehicle' - to be precise) - because many (maybe most) were created to worship the Hindu faith - the influence from India into this part of South East Asia was enormous bringing both of India's founding faiths here - yet time and the beliefs of various kings of the Khmer Empire have actually fused a variety of religions together in the temples we see today - it's common place to see a statue of Buddha next to a statue of the eight armed Vishnu (Hindu) and a statue of King Jayavarman VII (Devaraja or god-king) - confusing huh? - try writing this stuff!
You know I just can't quite get my head around how this stuff was all constructed into the edifices we see today- the volume of stone is simply mind blowing - and the fact that it was quarried 30-50km away up the Tonle Sap River makes me wonder 'how was it all moved here?' - yet alone - 'how did they then lift it into perfect position 200m from the ground?' (in the case of the Central Sanctuary of Angkor Wat - the highest structure at 200m) - that's half the height of The Empire State Building in Manhattan, New York - 900 years ago (the finest Wat was built between 1113 and 1150) - with ropes made from vines and scaffold made from trees - what a group of geniuses - how could they not hold their empire together?
For everything was pretty much abandoned from the end of the 16th Century - and arguably a few centuries earlier because the Khmer Empire slowly shifted from it's capital here to Phnom Penh (away from the powerful Siamese, modern day Thais, and their capital in Ayutthaya, north of present day Bangkok) - the Temples of Angkor were 're-discovered' again (in the eyes of the west anyway for everyone around here knew what lay lurking in the jungle) by a Frenchman, Henri Mouhot, in his publications in Paris and London in 1863
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henri_Mouhot
(These links aren't working so please cut and paste!)
The French established the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient in 1899 and took responsibility for the conservation of the monuments - a role it handed over to an International Co-ordinating Committee in 1993 after designation of the whole 400km squared (!!) area as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/668
And how do I know all this stuff - I'd like to say it was a cracking History teacher at Newent Comprehensive School - I liked Mr Ricketts - but he was bogged down by a crappy National Curriculum and the repeal of those bloody Corn Laws - no - it's books - many of them - Siem Reap is a wonderful and incredibly chic (for Cambodia) town about 8km south of the ticketed entrance to Angkor Park - everyone stays here - there's no accommodation around the Temples (although there are local villages everywhere and a day around the temples gives you not only the best history on the planet but also an insight into the daily lives of rural Cambodians - and more lovely interactions - like my negotiation for 3 not 2 dragon fruit from a stall on the side of the road on my way back to the amazing Mandalay Inn last night - now just $7 for a big room a night)
But books - Siem Reap has loads of books for sale - some from shops - and many from kids trying to make a few bucks during the school holiday/vacation (August is holiday time across the entire Northern Hemisphere) - if you already have the one they're trying to sell you - they'll always be another one - and I currently have 4 on Angkor and the Khmer Empire (admittedly only one from kids - my fave shop is in town) - they're only $5 a go and - the best selection and value I've found anywhere in the world - the odd dodgy photocopy kicking around - but generally ace - ask anyone who's been to the Temples of Angkor if they bought a brilliant, glossy book for a cracking price - and they'll say yes!
For the record we and I explored 35 temples in 6 days = 1 day in a car, 4 days on a tuk tuk and 1 day on a bicycle (me, yesterday and a must if you want to really feel the Temples of Angkor at their best) - but tuk tuks are not far behind - and the company of our driver for 5 days was a joy - Mr Keo Yan is a patient, kind, sincere man with a good sense of humour and an uncanny ability to drive safely around a multitude of obstacles on Cambodian roads (you soon adjust to seeing speeding motos coming at you the wrong way around a blind corner!) - if anyone reading this is coming to Siem Reap please use Yan - it's a hugely competitive market providing rides to foreigners and I can't recommend him highly enough - here's his email address and a picture of him and Lucy ready to hit yet another temple - I hope I see him again in my lifetime
keoyan_2006@yahoo.com
Telephone (Calling Locally) 012 635032
Telephone (Calling From Overseas) 855 12 635032
But Lucy has now headed back to the UK and I'd like to thank her for coming out to sample this crazy journey and the delights of Vietnam and Cambodia - I probably wouldn't have explored quite so far into the deep parts of these places if I'd been on own - I hope you're back safely Lucy and your photographs look as great on your computer as they do on your camera!
Despite my love for all things Angkorian I won't be covering every temple on this blog - there's just way too many and I have too many notes - instead - in a Top of the Pops (you add the da-da-daaa-da-da-daaa-da-daaa count down music!) style here's a run down of my top 5 - maybe you'll be surprised?!
At 5 - Angkor Wat - the Daddy of all the Temples of Angkor - it's audacious, the entrance causeway/walkway is half a mile long, the bas relief carvings stretch for a mile, it has beautiful sunlit apsaras, it's iconic and everyone comes here - so you can't climb it anymore - and for that reason it's not the best!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Wat
Nuns and THE Wat ...
Denied ...
Those gorgeous celestial nymphs (or apsaras) ...
At 4 - Ta Nei - it's deep in the jungle, it's crawling with insects, it's serene, it's covered in moss, it's seldom visited and so it feels like you've just come across a lost city
We're off and walking - I did say deep ...
One visitor in the central sanctuary if you can see past the vine ...
At 3 - Angkor Thom's East Gate - down the end of the original ancient road (that was paved 12 generations ago but never since), secluded and populated only by monkeys and hundreds of yellow butterflies and still looking the way that Henri Mouhot would have discovered it again 150 years ago
A shopping bike and ancient paved road didn't go together but it was worth it ...
At 2 - Bayon - covered in hundreds of 2.5m high images of Avalokiteshvara, beautifully lit by the sun at dusk, still an active place of worship for Buddhist monks and the scene of my first ever elephant ride in a French explorer way (the method of transport favoured around all the temples before the way was cleared for the motor engine!)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayon
The contemplative Avalokiteshvara ...
You'll have to enlarge this one to do it justice and see those awe inspiring faces ...
My transport for the morning ...
At 1 - Beng Mealea - the biggest and best 'ruin' and the ultimate Indiana Jones/Lara Croft/Nathan Drake experience - 'I'm having the afternoon of my life' - miles off the beaten track (over an hour in the car from Siem Reap) - 4 collapsing libraries that saw me scramble and climb my way through them in search of ancient, undiscovered Buddhas while brushing aside big cobwebs that must have been created by big spiders - a central sanctuary that had completely collapsed and provided an ace climbing test - and a close call with the poisonous Hanuman snake - a light green, superbly camouflaged and fast serpent that, thankfully, saw me coming and flashed off into the undergrowth - all in all - the most amazingly adventurous time - if you're ever here - don't miss Beng Mealea !
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beng_Mealea
And here it stands in ruin ...
Go on my friend - treasures of exploration lie in wait ...
'OK - I can't go back - anything except snakes please ...'
Hot, sweaty and inspired ...
A naga lurking in the afternoon sun ...
How many kings and pilgrims once walked through this entrance ...
Other temples that deserve a mention are Pre Rup because of the grazing water buffalo who hoover up the vegetation in pools of water surrounding the grand scale of the towers - water buffalo are ace - and maybe my second fave animal behind those bloody topper kangaroos!
And finally Banteay Samre - a closely packed temple that saw one of my two Buddhist/Hindu fortune readings - both of which wished me good luck (the other one was in Angkor Wat) - have I sat cross legged, donated to the gods, had a prayer read for me, had a red piece of wool tied around my wrist (and blown on) and burned incense with monks - of course - I'm in Cambodia - here's the peaceful, charming, warm and friendly Yu Lun and where he spends his days
OK blog fans - well done for getting this far - I'm now starving hungry and about to laze around the coffee shops of Siem Reap all afternoon writing post cards - but here's that prize opportunity (which I'm also off to buy late this afternoon when the markets get going) - to win - you have to be the first person to either post a comment or email me (for those not 'commenting') the correct answer to this question - 'what's in these bottles?'
71 comments:
Rory just saw your photo in the khaki shirt, shoulder bag and hat and said "is that Indiana Jones?" - thought you'd be impressed! Hope u r well.
hey Jez - finished blog and looking at those bottles reckon they've got fuel in them for filling up your moped or tuk tuk. Looking forward to my prize. Love Tatey
You are a ... WINNER!
Top work Tatey - a just reward from one of the blog's most regular readers - I'm really chuffed that the prizes and being spread around - it is indeed fuel/gasoline/petrol in - no flashy pumps around the rural dusty roads of Siem Reap - just open the cap, stick in a funnel and pour the bottle's contents in the tank) - it's not urine or natural lemonade like I first thought - I'm off to the post office in Bangkok tomorrow to get your deserved prize in the post (along with other stuff for me so don't think you're that special - only a bit)
Tell Rory he's a bright young man - it's the NEW Indiana Jones!
And to everyone else - you snooze - you lose
too easy! Thanks Jez.
Not as regular as Sally!
What I would like to know is where is Swifty?!!!How have I beaten him when this was posted a week ago!!!
Just got back from Mallorca and (thanks for the postcard)now feeling fully up to date again... I would not have won the prize anyway as I would have guessed rice wine of some sort!!!! Hating being back in poxy England but have definitely missed my weekly world lessons! Lots of love Jez
Sally
Still here Sal. For the record I knew the answer it was in the previous blog. It does look like a Jackson sample after a night on the lash! Returned from 4 great days in Norfolk, a rare sight o the sun and the usual good food, ale and great beaches. Back to work today. Bummer!
Swift
Is it petrol?
Hi Meister,
about time I touched base,all's well here on the Family front George growing up fast,Maddie cantering on Horse, Livi now riding her bike, all missing you but keeping a track of your whereabouts through sara and I.Your journey seems to scale new heights with every blog I read,and,I know it's been said before,but you should seriously look at doing this for a living, it is compelling and totally professional.You are and continue to be my little bit of escapism during this increasingly pesimistic time over here in blighty.Company still doing pretty well despite Oil at massive levels New investment that we spoke about before you left now signed and sealed.Robbies stag looming I am already doing regular liver exercises in preparation.The kids will either blog or E-mail in the next week or so. For now take care my fine friend. x
Hey Jez
My prize arrived yesterday - thanks pal. We really like it and going to get it framed. Pretty impressed with the old Cambodian postal service too. All the best.
Hey Matt - great to hear from you again pal and thanks for the update - looking forward to hearing from the kids - and your too kind mate - yep - loving the whole creativity thing going on here - making me go 'hmmm' about future work - which I hope goes OK for you in current situation - if nto - keep escaping with me my old friend - love to you all as always - and hope that liver survives the onslaught - v funny petrol gag - a tadge too late - got to be up early on this blog x
And glad you like the prize Tatey - bought and sent a couple for framing to meself - and I cheated - it was Thailand's uber efficient post - I expect to see it up when I next visit - the cartoony style drew me in!
Hello as always Sal and Swifty - I feel happier now that you're both around again - enjoy the latest post - and hope teaching again's ace?!
J x
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