See - I can do it - embracing wide open spaces, breathing fresh air, getting muddy shoes and staring in awe at nature's wonders I mean.
I've been away from blogging this last week or so because, for the first time on this journey, I've found myself in a car and behind the wheel. And the weirdest thing's happened. I've appreciated the way your brain changes to it's surroundings when travelling. Driving on the right hand side has felt the most natural thing in the world and not once did I pull out into the left hand lane. I can only assume it's because I'm feeling very naturalised here in the States. The car's back now and I'm having a day hanging out in Moab.
Moab is the coolest piece of the States and it's a joy to live here. It's in south east Utah (Grand County) and is the heart of the adventure/outdoor scene in south west USA. It's populated by mountain bikers, 4 x 4 drivers, climbers, car washers (!), motel owners, restauranteurs and others! The locals here are concerned it's becoming Aspen-ised i.e. house prices are growing and difficult for locals because out of towners are loving all the adventure activity. I've come at such a top time because it's not peak season and it's quiet/very affordable. The weather's been awesomely sunny (although cold-ish at 10 degrees centigrade) and the National Parks empty ... more coming up!
I was staying at The Lazy Lizard Hostel before I arrived and found out they were plastering my room - while I was in it! But a hop, skip and Hercule Poirot investigation later ('I didn't know he lived in the village') and I'm cosily in The Virginian Motel paying 14 pounds a night for a room the equivalent of a Travelodge! But enough about town-y stuff...
It's rugged, it's dramatic, it's iconic, it's red, it's orange, it's movie image evoking, it's wild and it's west. And I'm soaking it up! I'm now in danger of calling this my 10th No. 1 favourite place. But when you sit at sunset looking at the following image of Delicate Arch in Arches National Park it's hard not to say 'no, this is my favourite place'. It's overtaken Yosemite for me because it's so different to anything I've seen before ... just check this out ... it's 60 feet high on the edge of a cliff!
For the twitchers amongst you that's a big raven (stick it in your book and have it on me Gars/Swifty) and those are the La Sall mountains in the background. I did get pictures of me and Delicate Arch only they were taken by half wits! Everyone round here is a an amateur photographer way off my Dad, Del's standards! The bloke who snapped me with Delicate Arch sticking out the top of my head and minus it's top was the classic case of 'all the gear and no idea'. Now we're back to the educational bit of this trip. These arches (that have to be 3 feet wide to qualify) and other rock formations in this area are formed by: a prehistoric sea evaporating leaving salt, rock debris blowing down on top of the area, the malleable salt beds bulging upwards, moisture/wind getting into the salt/rock and EROSION doing it's thing (regular commenter and physical geography teacher Growie may like to clarify ... big man?).
I have sooo many pictures of this area and in fact I feel a bit like a natural history photographer right now. This is not unexpected when you think about all the Hollywood movies made in this area. Including, and hooray, the start of Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade that was shot here. The bit when River Phoenix played a young Indy. Check it out using this You Tube link and all of those images are exactly where I've been hanging out. The very first scene is Park Avenue in Arches just round the corner from the Visitor Centre. Jaw dropping huh! I was planning on going to Monument Valley (150 odd miles south from here) but there's just no need. You can get the wild west feel everywhere you look around here!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSnGx3DEpqU
I've also been to Canyonlands National Park. Canyonlands is where the Green and Colorado rivers have wended their way through the salt/rock and carved out canyons as they've gone. There's 3 areas to it. The Island in the Sky overlooks it all and is a piece of land surrounded by air except for one spit that connects it back to the Moab fault. It's 2000 feet from the Island to the canyon floor waaaaaay below and creates images like this. Again. At sunset the play of shadows makes for the most spectacular views ...
The second area of Canyonlands is called the Needles and it's remote. I visted and for the 30 miles, single lane road to the Visitor Centre off the main interstate, I didn't see another car. When I arrived and did yet another short hike I was literally in the middle of nowhere. The silence was deafening. And really showed up my tinitis! In fact at one point I had to look out for intruders and kept my eye carefully down the barrel ...
It was truly amazing. This was on top of a huge rock that was used by the ancient Puebloans, Ute Indians and, finally, cowboys as a camp. The rock overhang was a great shelter and it was called Cave Spring so water was, very rarely for the desert, available. They still had the camp set up, but, more incredibly, on the rock were ancient hand prints (pictographs) going back hundreds of years and created by ancient indian hands much smaller than my own. Right there, nothing protecting them except the conscience of the visitors and in mint condition. The USA at it's very best ...
The final area of Canyonlands is the Maze and only accessible for 4 wheel drives (my Kia Spectra didn't fancy it). It's legendary because many, many outlaws hid out there in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Including Butch Cassidy apparently. It's still considered the remotest part of the USA and, obviously, back then the lawmakers couldn't get out there. And even if they did it's a myriad of vertical stone structures (fins) and you can get lost for days and weeks. Magic for horse-rustlers and murderers ...
I got my own feel of what Butch got up to when I visited the Fiery Furnace back in Arches yesterday and did a ranger-led tour that involved clambering around amongst the rocks and getting your feet dirty on the ground of the wild west. A must if you come here rather than just looking at the views from behind the warmth and protection of the wind shield! Murray Shoemaker was a real icon (the National Park's rangers are revered out here and rightly so).
It was a fabulous 3+ hours and maybe my first Indiana Jones experience. There were some big drop offs, tight gaps and sure footed requirements. Not to mention the mountain lions signs (cougars to us in GB I think). And I passed with flying colours. Mind you I should have really. A 5 year old did it all! Admittedly carried by her Dad for half of it but what an experience for her! Murray also commended us on our time of visiting. In Summer it's over 30 degrees centigrade and they have thousands of car each day. Now that would spoil the spirit of out here for me.
Finally for here in Moab I've experienced a real life 'don't listen to strangers' experience. Only joking. It was awesome and I love Americans for being soooo enthusiastic about life and their 'can do' attitude. The bloke on the back of the Big Horn Express that shuttled me here from higher up Utah said I had to do the Slickrock Trail while I was here. OK. Recommendations from locals have been highlights of this trip so far. And still are by a big piece of 'being out of my comfort zone'!
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/trails/slickrck.htm
Slickrock is a mecca for mountain bikers. It put Moab on the map back in the 1960s and has elevated it to it's status now. Only one problem. It was designed for motor bikes! Slickrock refers to the rocks that a trail has been marked out over just north of Moab and stretching for 10 miles. 10 miles of steeeeep, often close to vertical, ups and downs. Think Junior Kick Start crossed with Evel Knievel. On a mountain bike in it's lowest gear. I'd like to see Peter Purves pull this one off. Going up you pedalled like fury and jumped off before you fell backwards. Going down you put all your weight over your back tyre and hoped your nuts wouldn't clang against the back of the bike seat ... I fell! Once, uphill and onto my right hip. It still hurts. It all felt a bit like the steep snowboarding. Only the stakes are just a bit higher when you're going to fall on rock not powder snow. And did I mention the canyon drop offs of a hundred feet or more! Thankfully the rock and my Cannondale Prophet's tires stuck to each other like glue. The bike had suspension on the front forks and the main frame's seat. And it was all worth it afterwards. I'd cracked a grade 4 (of 4!!!) mountain bike trail. Well. Half of it. The whole thing may have killed me! It's also given me a flavour of fun to come. Gravity-assisted mountain biking in Bolivia might now be an option ...
And a quick one for my godson, George, who loves dinosaurs. Alongside all this wild west and outdoors stuff I'm in dinosaur-alley right now. This picture is the REAL, ACTUAL footprints of an allosaurus (think T-Rex) from millions and millions of years ago. It's in a slab of rock out in the hills here and I scrambled up to be right where the massive carnivore actually walked. Thankfully he'd long gone and how cool is this ...
In the next couple of days I'm moving again to St George in Utah and Zion, Bryce and The Grand Canyon (!!!) National Parks. My camera's just warming up ...
61 comments:
Hi Jez
Just got back from 4 great days in Milan with my dad. We talked about you lots and how we hope to pop over to Rome later in the year!Keep having fun- loving all the lessons (I loved Kick Start - pity they don't repeat that...)
Lots of love Sally
Hi Jez
We also saw dinosaurs today we took the girls to the natural history museum in Oxford, just around the corner from your brothers old college.
Your trip sounds amazing but you can stick your Kia pistachio...as I've just purchased a VW Beetle and she is ready for collection tomorrow. The girls have already named her Doris!
Ashes to Ashes the sequel to Life on Mars has started and it's fantastically eighties and very British you'd love it.
Take care lots of love
Nev
xxx
Nicely played girls and thanks for carrying on reading (that probably wouldn't have been the best of those movies)
A return to childhood memories in Milan huh Sally - say hello to Shady for me and you've talked about it so much you HAVE to join me in Rome now
Wow! - naughty spending Nevster - mind you if anyone deserves a Beetle it's you! - great choice - so you've now got her - colour? - stick a flower in Doris' holder for me - and that may be a euphemism! - I'll chedk that Ashes out on You Tube which is easily avaialble thanks to my iPs - top tip
Take care you 2 and hey to the respective fellas - hope teaching's OK
Jez xxx
Jezzer,
Just reading through your blogs..sounds like you're having an amazing time. Grand Canyon will be awesome, went when I was a wee monkey, inspiring views.
The boys are missing you big time, although we seem to have found a replacement in nicki white to equal your time off the pitch for yellows (and reds!).. sure you've seen the results...not looking too good!
Keep up the blog and geography lessons for us all,
Monkey
hi Jez it's Maddie here,how are you
I went horse-riding on saturday and I cantered for the second time it was on my own I was on polly shes good I love you Jez...byyyye
Hi it's George here Liverpool lost against Barnsley 2-1 and are out of the fa cup at Anfield as well.Man utd beat Arsenal 4-0 at Old Trafford in the Fa Cup seeyaaa.Typed by George xxxoo
Good evening my dear fellow, quite a contrast to the white slopes, but just as aweinspiring I suspect.How are you finding the time is going, Quickly?. Are you with company most of the time or are there long periods of solitude? If so how are you finding that? Kitch nearly finished, Nick and sally came up for weekend couple of weeks ago and were as enchanting as usual. Pete and pol the week before in fine form and great company. ( George mooning me at present I guess that's a boy thing!)
Keep safe my friend Matt x
Hi Jez, scenery looks fantastic but no horses ! Where are all the cowboys ?! nice to see George just wanting to keep you updated with the footie results! Just about to embark on a very busy period with birthdays, babies(Becky's due soon ) easter, school hols and still the house to complete so keep the blogs coming to keep us sane. Keep enjoying love Sara x
Hi Jez
Pete and Polly here, Ben currently in bed but will be very excited by the allosaurus - he is mad about dinosaurs. We have become experts and Utah is mentioned regularly in the dino textbooks so any more dino bits will be greatfully recieved by the flake. Sounds like you are having a fantastic time!
Jezmond
Well done on getting through the winter sport bit unscathed! Scenery looks amazing. Dinosaurs seem to appeal to lots of young boys, I used to love them too but am a bit out of practice these days - perhaps another dino quiz!
Just watched the most bizarrely lucky goal in the Middlesborough/Sheffield Utd FA Cup replay. 5 mins to go in extra time and Mids score a goal that had 3 (yes count them)deflections on the way in shot-deflection-deflection off post- deflection back on to keeper and in!!!
Nicholsons were as hospitable as ever, kids are a dream to be around. George now curls the football as well as Beckham, up and round Liv's car doubling as a wall. Maddie and Liv so friendly, especially when finding space in our bed for a Sunday morning cuddle
Keep it going Jez
Jez, sorry not post recently but been mad at work and home. Loving the geographic features. Perfect timing as well as my year 8s are doing weather and erosion. You fitted in as a perfect example and they were send their regards. Yhey were not so bigger fans of the tache at the start but thats Brownhills for you, they have never quite got many things!!! Keep up the top work and i will drop you an e-mail over the weekend. Hopefully with a report of a win rather than the shoking performances we are putting in at the moment. I will also try to get some of the awards videos to a size i can send. keep the lesson material coming its saving me hours of planning!!!
All the best
The Bags
I think we have found our replacement for the retiring David Attenborough.
You are a legend in your own orange (I'd blend in nicely) sunset and I am not at all jealous as I get the metro to tyne bridge to hurl myself off!!
Good on you and what your doing you deserve all the dinosaur footprints you can get, keep up the good work makes great reading on this short, windy (Greame Clarkson!!) nights
Have it!!
Bods
Hey once more gang
Wonderful views, opinions, comments as always!
So I'm sat in my brother's bungalow in LA! Tardiness in blogging 'cos too busy enjoying Vegas baby! I'll probably do a doubler early next week so keep posted ...
Hey there Monkey - glad you've found a replacement card collector at the club - but does he do it with my style?! - good luck for points tomorrow (my time!)
Love you too Mads and well done on your cantering - keep it up and we'll get you in the Olympics! - and cheers for that gloating George ;-) well done to Man U - what a result - I'm happy for you - Liverpool have never been the same since King Kenny left the club - now he did the double as a player/manager - ask your Dad! - and keep up the typing - it'll be more important than hand writing for you
Give my love to Becks Sara for a successful delivery - of her own baby this time! - that sounds more cricket than anything but you know what I mean - Easter's early huh? - are those kids of yours ever in school? - hope you're not too rushed off your feet and glad the kitch is almost done - tell MFI I made it overland in the USA in the time it's taken them to fit a kitch ... sorry! - distinct lack of cowboys - but plenty of ranches in the latest leg
Awe inspiring indeed Matt - everywhere's different here and for that it's such an amazing place to see - strange mix of journeying - the west of USA is wide open, there's not much infra-structure for travellers and I have missed that camaraderie - but all good - glad you're entertaining the troops - keep them well oiled!
Hey Pete and Poll - dino disappointment I'm afraid - no more dino news - I was tempted to see a farm in the desert with dino remains in St George, Utah, but it sounded a bit naff - cheesyosaurus - so I gave it a miss and holding my allosaurus viewing in my mind instead - but Flakey needs to persuade you to visit here in the Summer, bring a 4 x 4, go to Moab and 20 minutes away you can be seeing dino prints galore in the open desert - there's a really cool set of a brachiosaurus turning alongside an allosaurus and raptors - we assume he was trying to get away when they attacked him!
I can only hope you didn't glance a goal in off Liv's head when she was sat in that car/wall Els - they're a dream those girls huh? - I trust you slept in the top lovely room
Cheers Bag - look forward to the email mate - hope you had a top time skiing and all's well - what timing! - I constantly thought of you throughout all of Utah - a dream for you it would have been - geography porn - and happy to help out mate - yep - saw the results - Lich need a win (not got one since I left I noticed ...)
Bodster - I'm sure the Tyne is just as enticing to you northern lads as the Colorado - and you're right - you could have hidden out for days with that hair and no Park Ranger would have found you! - glad you're enjoying it all mate - keep fighting to find that tennis champ mate (or now you're in the commercial world charge them loads and hit your bonus!!!) - thanks for the kind words - now where's that BBC job application form ... say hey to Clarkey
Hi Jez, Maisie is turning out to be a chip off the old block. One of only 6 kids in KS1 selected for an athletics festival. Thats my girl. All we need now is a lottery grant and we can get her the obligatory athlete tatoos, bling and piercings!! Hattie continues to grow and is catching Maisie up. Maisie has final managed to ride her bike unaided so there is no stopping her. Got a £400 bonus for OFSTED report, holiday here we come. The plans have been laid for scrapes challenge and everyone is desperate to get their h'caps up. I've gone up to 11 and and hoping for 12 before we go!
Watch those casinos in Vegas. Keep it coming. Swift
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